7/3 
L99o 


Lynn 

Outlines  of  Instruction  in  the 
Needle-working  Trade 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


INDUSTRIAL  EDUCATION 


OUTLINES  OF  INSTRUCTION 

IN  THE 

NEEDLE-WORKING  TRADE 


By  J.  V.  Lynn 


FOR  USE  IN 

prni.ir  PART-TIME  AND  FACTORY  VESTIBULE  SCHOOLS 


E>:< ; i x EEPJX< ;  EXTEXSIOX  DEI>A UTMEXT 

IOWA  STATE  COLLEGE 
AMES.  IOWA 

i  C1  ^  ~ 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFOrfNIA 
LIBRARY, 

ANGELE6.  CALIF 


OUTLINES  OF  INSTRUCTION  IN  THE 
NEEDLE-WORKING  TRADE 

By  J.  V.  Lynn,  Associate  Professor  Vocational  Education 


I.     INTRODUCTION 

.  Education  is  a  four-fold  process  in  preparation  for  full  or  complete 

~   living.     To  be  adequately  prepared  requires  that  the  individual  shall 

Cv  not  be  lacking  in  any  one  of  the  four  elements  necessary.     First  of 

^  all  there  must  lie  health.     Such  instruction  as  will  promote  physical 

wellbeing  is  the  foundation.     Upon  this  foundation  is  laid  the  ability 

%  to  earn  a  livelihood,  so  the  second  instructional  process  is  prepara- 

^5  tioii  to  do  one's  share  of  the  productive  work  of  the  world.     Third, 

and  perhaps  the  largest  in  point  of  volume,  are  the  social  and  civic 

relationships,  the  ability  to  live  among  one's  fellows.     Fourth  and 

last  is  the  profitable  employment  of  leisure  time.     A  well  rounded 

education   therefore  includes  the  physical,  vocational,  social-civic, 

and  avocational  elements.     Each  is  required,  and  each  should  have 

%    a  controlling  purpose  within  its  own  field.     Physical  education  is 

^    concerned  with  physique  and  nothing  else.     Vocational  education  is 

concerned  with  intelligent  skilled  production,  and  that  alone.     One 

cannot  usurp  the  place  of  the  others,  but  each  is  supreme  in  its 

own  field. 

Having  all  this  in  mind,  this  study  which  has  been  made  of  the 
needle-working  trade  has  the  vocational  element  as  its  basis.  While 
recognizing  the  other  three,  it  is  not  proposed  to  discuss  them  nor 
to  include  them  as  factors  in  this  problem.  The  purpose  of  this 
study  may  be  stated  as  an  attempt  to  provide  instructional  material 
for  use  in  schools  where  girls  are  anticipating  entrance  upon  or  have 
already  entered  the  needle-working  trade.  It  is  designed,  moreover, 
for  a  local  situation,  and  can  only  serve  suggestively  under  any 
other  circumstances. 

The  local  situation  was  found  at  Dubuque,  Iowa,  where  the  public 
part-time  school  Avas  faced  with  the  problem  of  giving  civic  and 
vocational  instruction  to  girls  now  working  for  the  H.  B.  Glover 
Company,  manufacturing  an  extended  line  of  sleepingwear  and 
overalls.  In  the  factory  there  is  also  a  training  organization  for 
assistance  to  newly  employed  girls.  Mr.  Harvey  L.  Freeland,  State 
Supervisor  of  Trade  and  Industrial  Education,  suggested  the  benefit 
which  would  come  through  a  survey  of  the  problem  along  some 
definite  lines,  and  brought  the  matter  to  the  attention  of  those  con- 
cerned with  vocational  education  at  Iowa  State  College.  The  H.  B. 
Glover  Company,  directly  interested  in  the  part-time  school,  and 


in  the  prospect  of  improving  its  own  training  school,  kindly  offered 
all  its  facilities  for  use  in  making  the  necessary  analysis  of  the 
'  industry. 

The  survey  was  made  with  the  assistance  of  the  part-time  school 
teachers  and  the  factory  instructors.  Officials  of  the  company  in- 
cluding foremen  and  forewomen  were  highly  co-operative,  making 
available  all  necessary  information,  and  checking  the  work  to  ensure 
its  authenticity.  Each  department  was  visited  and  a  skeleton  draft 
of  the  production  organization  was  made  with  the  payroll  jobs  in 
each  department  and  the  work  jobs  included  in  each  payroll  job. 
It  was  necessary,  however  to  make  a  more  complete  study  of  those 
departments  where  girls  are  employed,  and  this  was  done  partly 
through  conferences  with  the  factory  instructors,  and  partly  through 
direct  observation  of  processes.  The  conferences  Avere  necessary  to 
establish  a  point  of  view  and  create  a  general  concept  of  the  instruc- 
tion given  in  making  certain  garments.  When  the  conferences  had 
accomplished  this  they  had  served  their  purpose,  and  thereafter  the 
analysis  of  processes  could  be  made  more  speedily  and  accurately 
by  direct  observation  of  the  girls  at  work  on  the  garments.  By 
observation  and  questioning,  a  mass  of  information  was  obtained 
regarding  garment-making  in  four  departments.  Additional  in- 
formation was  secured  from  foremen  and  forewomen,  which  lias 
been  arranged  as  a  part  of  this  study  under  general  or  common 
instructional  material. 

While  the  direct  purpose  of  the  survey  was  to  assist  in  the  solution 
of  a  local  problem,  it  is  felt  that  it  can  serve  in  a  suggestive  way  to 
other  part-time  school  officers  having  similar  problems  in  other 
industries.  It  will  also  be  serviceable  to  heads  of  vestibule  schools 
in  the  needle  trade  elsewhere,  and  may  suggest  to  plant  instructors 
of  other  industries  a  way  out  of  some  difficulties. 

II.     METHODS  OF  PREPARATORY  TRAINING 

There  are  two  possible  agencies  for  training  workers  in  the  semi- 
skilled employments.  The  public  may  provide  for  it  in  certain 
cases  where  the  community  value  is  sufficiently  apparent  to  receive 
attention  from  the  public  school  board.  It  is  here  that  the  part-time 
school  can  serve  as  the  particular  agency  in  such  training.  If  needle- 
work is  sufficiently  important  in  the  community  enterprise,  it  is 
possible  to  provide  special  training  for  girls  anticipating  employ- 
ment in  garment  factories.  These  girls  may  be  employed  in  various 
occupations,  but  have  expressed  a  desire  to  learn  power  machine 
operating  in  order  to  change  to  an  occupation  with  greater  earning 
capacity.  They  may  already  be  employed  at  juni'ir  clerical  service 
in  a  garment  factory,  and  meantime  be  preparing  themselves  at  part- 
time  school  to  master  the  operation  of  a  machine  sufficiently  well  to 
enter  one  of  the  making  departments.  In  either  case  it  is  a  part-time 


preparatory  class  in  power  machine  operating,  and  the  public  school 
board  would  be  serving  the  interests  of  the  community  directly  by 
meeting  the  vocational  desires  of  these  young  people. 

The  second  training  agency  is  what  is  called  the  factory  vestibule 
school.  It  presupposes  no  preparation  in  advance  of  employment 
in  some  factory.  The  girl  is  hired  to  operate  a  sewing  machine,  and 
must  be  prepared  to  do  so.  Many  factories  place  these  novices  on 
the  production  floor  and  train  them  there.  There  are  several  im- 
portant difficulties  in  successfully  carrying  through  such  a  process 
of  training.  These  may  be  itemized  as  follows:  (a)  learner  is  over- 
awed by  speed  and  volume  of  work  seen  all  around;  (b)  others  are 
wholly  engrossed  with  production  so  that  the  learner  is  very  much 
alone  at  a  time  when  a  personal  interest  and  a  common  problem  is 
most  appreciated;  (c)  learners  are  so  scattered  that  personal  super- 
vision by  the  instructor  is  made  less  effective;  (d)  if  instruction  is 
a  part  of  the  forewoman's  duty,  the  supervision  is  rendered  still 
less  effective  because  of  the  duties  incident  to  production.  For  these 
and  other  reasons  it  is  best  to  segregate  learners  in  a  training  room 
until  they  have  acquired  sufficient  knowledge  about  the  processes 
and  the  firm  organization  to  take  their  place  on  the  production  floor 
as  a  unit  in  the  plant  and  with  an  interest  common  to  those  already 
there. 

In  the  series  of  Training  Bulletins  issued  by  The  Training  Service 
of  the  United  States  Department  of  Labor  there  are  four  devoted  to 
ilic  <rarment  trade.  All  of  these  have  a  very  clear  and  adequate 
description  of  the  vestibule  school,  so  that  it  is  not  necessary  to 
enlarge  this  point.  The  purpose  here  is  rather  to  provide  suggestive 
material  for  use  by  instructors  in  either  a  public  part-time  or  a  fac- 
tory vestibule  school.  A  word  is  necessary  as  to  the  organization 
for  instruction.  At  the  factory  there  is  provision  of  machines,  power 
and  material  with  but  little  extra  expense.  Instructors  are  selected 
from  among  the  most  capable  operators  who  may  have  at  least  a 
liking  for  the  job,  and  possibly  a  "knack"  of  putting  across  the 
ideas  required  in  operating  a  machine.  These  instructors,  however 
excellent,  are  seriously  handicapped  by  the  fact  that  they  are  simply 
passing  on  certain  skills  in  much  the  same  way  that  they  themselves 
were  taught  them  some  years  ago.  They  have  not  learned  the  new 
trade  of  instructing,  and  are  not  aware  perhaps  that  they  have 
actually  changed  trades  completely.  Executives  in  the  plant  have 
little  to  offer  in  the  way  of  suggestion  for  their  interest  and  effort 
is  in  production  rather  than  instruction.  Consequently  the  vesti- 
bule school  instructor  is  left  to  "go  it  alone,"  under  the  impression 
that  because  no  one  can  give  her  any  suggestions,  she  knows  as  much 
about  it  as  anyone  else  and  probably  more.  There  are  two  points 
at  which  the  vestibule  instructor  usually  breaks  down  to  a  degree. 
The  first  is  the  failure  to  include  sufficient  teaching  material  in  the 
outline  of  what  should  be  taught.  Probably  there  is  not  even  such 


6 

an  outline  in  existence.  This  bulletin  is  an  attempt  to  set  up  some- 
thing in  the  way  of  an  objective.  The  second  error  is  the  impression 
that  showing  and  telling  is  teaching.  Remedy  for  this  lies  in  a  study 
of  the  art  and  science  of  teaching.  Instructors  must  be  trained  to 
teach  just  as  operators  are  trained  to  manipulate  goods  in  the 
machine. 

In  the  part-time  school  one  of  two  policies  may  be  pursued.  The 
instruction  given  may  include  both  acquiring  of  skill  on  power  ma- 
chines, and  the  imparting  of  essential  auxiliary  information  related 
thereto,  or  it  may  cover  only  the  general  facts  about  employment  in 
the  trade,  the  auxiliary  information  of  a  more  general  type  regard- 
ing the  materials  used,  and  the  story  of  its  production  up  to  the  time 
it  comes  to  this  factory  as  raw  material.  Unquestionably  the  former 
is  better  since  it  includes  the  latter.  Such  a  course  of  instruction 
will  mean  the  installation  of  a  number  of  power  sewing  machines. 
The  instructor  for  this  part  of  the  work  must  be  familiar  with  quan- 
tity production  on  such  machines,  and  it  is  recommended  that  the 
school  board  secure  the  service  of  some  factory  instructor  for  a 
limited  time  each  week  to  give  the  necessary  manipulative  instruc- 
tion. The  provision  of  sewing  material  must  also  be  arranged  By 
cooperation  with  the  management  of  the  company  from  whom  the 
machine  instructor  comes,  it  should  be  possible  to  arrange  for  divert- 
ing certain  parts  of  lot  numbers  to  the  part-time  school  for  use  by 
the  instructor,  who  would  be  responsible  for  them  in  just  the  same 
way  as  she  would  be  when  instructing  in  the  factory.  The  auxiliary 
instruction  may  be  given  by  regular  part-time  instructors  who  know 
the  factory  organization  and  have  learned  the  personnel  and  duties 
which  go  with  each  position,  together  with  such  information  as  ap- 
pears later  in  this  study. 

As  indicated  previously  there  will  be  two  types  of  girl  taking  such 
part-time  instruction.  Some  are  already  employed  in  the  garment 
factory  at  other  employments  than  machine  work,  and  are  looking 
forward  to  a  change  which  will  be  in  the  way  of  a  promotion.  Others 
are  employed  at  various  occupations  in  the  city,  or  are  staying  at 
home,  but  are  anticipating  a  change  of  occupation  in  favor  of  the 
garment  factory.  In  an  eight-hour  period  of  schooling  per  week. 
the  time  might  be  divided  in  the  following  way : 

Power  machine  operating 3  hours 

Auxiliary  information 1   hour 

General   improvement 4  hours 

If  twelve  girls  desired  to  learn  power  operating,  they  could  be 
accommodated  with  a  unit  of  six  machines  if  formed  into  two  groups, 
A  and  B.  Half  of  the  eight  hours  would  be  required  to  segregate 
these  girls  for  special  instruction,  while  the  other  four  of  general 
part-time  instruction  would  be  spent  in  regular  classes.  The  two 
groups  would  meet  together  for  the  auxiliary  trade  instruction,  but 


would  get  their  machine  operating  at  a  different  time.     A  suggested 
schedule  follows : 

First  Half  Day 

Group  A — Machine   Operating 3  hours 

Group  A — General  Work 1  hour 

Group  B — General  Work 4  hours 

Second  Half  Day 

Group  A — General  Work 3  hours 

Group  B — Machine    Operating 3  hours 

Groups  A  &  B — Related  Instruction 1  hour 

This  would  mean  that  a  factory  instructor  would  be  required  for 
two  half-days  of  three  hours  each. 

III.     VOCATIONAL  TEACHING  OBJECTIVES 

Before  any  body  of  material  can  be  set  up  for  instructional  pur- 
poses, either  in  a  part-time  or  a  vestibule  school,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  very  clearly  defined  aims  as  to  what  is  to  be  done  for  those 
trained.  Here  are  some  which  might  be  adopted. 

1.  To  train  the  learner  as  a  high  speed  operator  of  some  particular 

machine  doing  a  special  operation. 

2.  To  train  the  learner  as  a  skilled  operator  of  some  particular 
machine  doing  a  number  of  operations. 

3.  To  train  the  learner  as  an  intelligent,  skilled  employee  giving 
full  time  to  operation  of  some  machine. 

4.  To  train  the  learner  as  an  intelligent,  skilled  employee  giving 
full  time  to  variety  work  on  some  one  or  more  machines. 

These  are  each  worth  some  careful  thought  so  that  the}r  may  be 
evaluated,  for  on  the  choice  of  objective  hangs  a  great  deal  of  the 
success  attained,  provided  its  requirements  are  adequately  met.  It 
is  safe  to  predicate  that  the  first  objective  is  more  frequently  chosen 
than  any  of  the  others,  or  that  the  methods  adopted  and  teaching 
content  used  indicate  such  to  be  the  result  where  probably  no  aim 
had  even  been  formulated.  It  will  be  noted  that  three  ideas  dom- 
inate, namely,  high  speed  operator,  machine,  and  one  operation.  The 
instructor  has  in  mind  the  minimum  time  and  effort  to  approximate 
the  aim,  and  considers  the  essential  elements  a  machine  and  an 
operator  to  feed  it  with  material.  It  presupposes  an  automaton 
whose  only  activity  is  physical  like  the  machine. 

The  second  objective  is  an  improvement  upon  the  first  in  that  it 
enlarges  the  physical  effort  to  a  degree,  providing  a  range  of  dif- 
erentiated  motions  which  themselves  go  through  a  cycle.  Here 
again  the  elements  are  a  machine  and  its  attendant. 

The  fundamental  error  in  the  assumption  in  both  cases  is  that  the 
individual  is  merely  physical.  Man  is  a  product  of  Mind,  not  of 


8 

matter,  and  as  such  he  is  expressing  ideas  which  are  more  real  to  him 
than  any  material  things,  because  they  affect  his  conduct  with  ten- 
fold more  force  than  anything  else.  Man  fights  for  an  idea  and 
strikes  for  certain  principles  which  he  calls  fair  play,  justice,  equal- 
ity, etc.  So  that  to  assume  that  an  operator  who  is  trained  to  attend 
a  machine  will  do  that  and  nothing  more  is  a  fallacy.  She  thinks, 
and  unless  her  thoughts  are  wisely  directed  they  may  assume  im- 
proper relationships  and  induce  wrong  conclusions.  Fancies  arise 
in  lieu  of  facts,  and  seem  as  real  as  the  true.  Had  the  training  ob- 
jective included  ideas  on  industrial  relationships,  there  would  be 
much  better  satisfaction  and  increased  earning  power  on  the  part 
of  each  learner. 

The  third  statement  of  an  objective  brings  in  the  new  element 
that  the  learner  is  an  employee  as  well  as  a  machine  attendant. 
That  is,  she  has  human  relationships  with  other  employees,  who  as 
a  whole  form  the  personnel  of  the  force  from  management  down.  It 
is  an  industrial  team,  not  a  collection  of  persons.  They  are  harnessed 
together  by  an  organization  which  demands  that  each  unit  pull  its 
share.  The  learner  in  this  case  must  not  only  be  skilled,  but  also 
intelligent  along  such  lines  as  will  be  indicated  later. 

The  fourth  aim  differs  from  the  third  in  that  the  learner  is  trained 
with  advancement  to  executive  positions  in  view.  It  may  not  be 
purposely  entered  at  the  beginning.  That  is,  a  learner  might  have 
been  trained  according  to  the  third  aim,  but  manifests  ability  which 
would  make  it  advisable  to  train  for  the  fourth.  She  would  then  be 
taken  off  the  production  floor  and  placed  on  a  time  basis  while  being 
trained  to  do  a  variety  of  work,  and  have  an  adequate  presentation 
of  the  problems  related  to  that  work. 

It  is  possible  that  management  officials  will  feel  that  there  is  no 
time  for  training  in  anything  else  than  the  bare  bones  of  the  pro- 
cesses; that  it  will  cost  too  much  to  follow  what  looks  to  be  mere 
idealism.  Yet  these  same  officers  are  spending  far  more  in  adjust- 
ing differences,  listening  to  grievance  committees,  hiring  and  train- 
ing for  an  abnormal  labor  turnover  than  would  meet  the  additional 
cost  of  more  effective  initial  training.  Ignorance  is  the  breeding 
ground  for  a  large  part  of  the  labor  dissatisfaction,  and  when  this 
has  been  opened  up  at  the  beginning,  much  grief  will  have  been 
eliminated. 

IV.     GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONAL  CONTENT 

With  the  purpose  of  assisting  instructors  who  are  faced  with  the 
responsibility  of  giving  instruction  preparatory  to  employment  in 
the  garment  trade,  the  following  outlines  have  been  prepared.  They 
deal  with  a  local  situation,  and  have  been  itemized  from  particular 
data,  so  that  they  can  serve  as  a  Avhole  only  for  the  schools  and 
factory  in  this  particular  city.  Elsewhere  the  material  can  only  be 


a  suggestion  of  what  might  be  prepared  under  parallel  cicumstances. 
Under  this  heading  will  be  included  those  subjects  which  should 
be  taken  up  with  every  learner  who  is  enrolled,  regardless  of  what 
place  she  is  to  occupy  in  the  factory  or  office.  Every  clerk  should 
have  a  day  or  two  in  the  vestibule  school  to  get  acquainted  with  the 
local  organization,  learn  who  its  officers  are,  catch  its  spirit,  get  a 
good  acquaintance  with  the  factory  program,  and  join  the  team  in 
purpose  as  well  as  in  letter.  There  is  not  any  suggestion  as  to  the 
order  in  which  it  is  to  be  discussed  because  it  is  all  classed  as 
auxiliary  information,  and  as  such  is  simply  imparted  rather  than 
taught.  Instructors  will  be  guided  by  the  situation  in  hand  when 
selecting  a  sequence  of  topics.  The  numerals  attached  to  the  topics 
are  therefore  only  for  identification  purposes. 

Topical  Outline 

1.  The  Local  Company 

a.  Formed — years  ago. 

b.  Purpose  (enlarge  present  situation). 

c.  Set  up  standard  of  excellence  (enlarge  present  standard). 

d.  Company  organization  and  duties  of  each  head  (see  chart, 

page  10). 

e.  Function  of  each  department  in  factory  proper. 

f.  Learner  is  introduced  personally  to  each  official  with  whom 

she  will  have  relations. 

2.  Manufacturing  costs 

a.     Table  showing  relation  of  costs 


Profit 


-Shop  cost 

Total  cost- 


elling  price 


Prime  costs  include : 

(1)  Direct  material  going  into  product  for  sale. 

(2)  Indirect  material  such  as  coal,  oil,  water,  gas,  boxes, 

crates,  factory  office  supplies. 

(3)  Direct  labor  upon  product  made  for  sale. 

(4)  Indirect  labor  including  entire  service  force. 
Factory  costs  include: 

(1)  All  prime  costs. 

(2)  Factory  supervision,  as  foremen,  foreladies,  superin- 

tendents. 

(3)  Factory  office   labor,   as  desk   girls,  label  markers, 

clerks. 

(4)  Interest  on  money  invested  in  buildings,  or  rent  for 

same. 


1(1 


COMPANY  ORGANIZATION 


Geneml  Management 
Mr.d 


Office  Management* 

Mr.B 


Sp/es  Managemenr 
Mr.C 


factory -Management 
MrD 


11 

(5)  Interest  on  money  invested  in  machines,  or  rent  for 

same. 

(6)  Taxes,  insurance  and  repairs. 

(7)  All  spoilage  and  waste  of  goods. 

(8)  All  designing  and  experiments. 

(9)  Replacement  of  all  machines  as  they  become  useless 

(depreciation). 

d.  Total  costs  include  : 

(1)  All  prime  costs. 

(2)  All  factory  costs. 

(3)  Salaries  of  general  office  and  sales  force. 

(4)  Expense  of  selling  other  than  salary,  as  travel,  etc. 

(5)  Rent,  taxes,  insurance  and  maintenance  of  general 

office. 

e.  All  costs  over  that  of  direct  material  and  labor  are  called 

overhead  costs.  A  failure  to  see  relative  values  is  found 
in  assuming  that  the  making  cost  is  the  only  one.  There 
are  many  others  which  must  be  added  to  this,  as  shown 
above,  and  when  all  are  included  it  will  be  found  that  the 
selling  price  of  the  garment  exceeds  the  total  production 
cost  by  but  a  few  cents.  Get  exact  company  figures  to 
illustrate  this  in  a  series  of  examples. 

f.  Profit  means  the  balance  or  surplus  which  remains  of  the 

selling  price  after  all  costs  have  been  paid.  It  is  a  rising 
and  falling  sum  depending  upon  the  amount  of  goods  sold, 
state  of  the  markets  and  amount  of  competition.  At  times 
there  is  no  profit  at  all,  and  sometimes  a  real  loss  must 
be  sustained. 
3.  Markets  and  Competition 

a.  Manufacturers  can  only  sell  when  the  public  wants  to  buy. 
This  want  establishes  a  market.  Business  market  de- 
pends absolutely  on  the  wants  of  the  people. 

1).  When  wants  are  made  known  there  is  a  bid  by  two  or  more 
manufacturing  firms  to  get  the  business.  This  bidding  is 
called  competition.  It  means  cutting  the  selling  price 
to  the  limit. 

c.  Price  cutting  means  eliminating 

(1)  Unnecessary  or  perhaps  all  profit. 

(2)  Unnecessary  overhead  costs.   (Local  plant  examples.) 

(3)  Unnecessary  factory  costs.   (Local  plant  examples.) 

d.  Necessary  costs  cannot  be  reduced.     They  include 

(1)  Lowest  buying  cost  of  material. 

(2)  Lowest  fair  wage  for  labor,  supervision,  office  and 

selling  force. 

e.  Fair  wages,  hours  and   conditions   mean   willingness  and 

teamwork,  resulting  in  least  amount  of  spoilage  and 
waste,  and  largest  output  of  product. 


12 

f.     A  sale  order  at  a  slightly  lower  price  and  more  frequently 
made  is  better  than  a  sale  order  at  a  higher  price  and 
less  frequently  made.     (Local  plant  examples.)  No  sales 
mean  no  work  at  our  factory. 
4.    Capital  Turnover 

a.     Two  meanings  are  given  to  the  term. 

(1)  Volume  of  business  transacted  in  the  year.  Example, 

with  an  investment  of  $60,000,  $60,000  worth  of 
material  was  bought,  made  and  sold.  One  turn- 
over was  made. 

(2)  If  the  $60,000  total  was    reached    by    having    only 

$20,000  available  cash,  this  being  used  to  purchase, 
make  and  sell,  then  again  purchase,  make  and  sell, 
and  again  a  third  time,  then  the  company  is  said 
to  have  made  three  turnovers  in  the  year  on  a 
$20,000  investment. 

1).  Company  having  two  turnovers  in  a  year  can  sell  at  3% 
profit,  and  earn  as  much  as  it  would  with  one  turnover 
selling  at  6%  profit.  It  is  therefore  better  for  public, 
company  and  employees  if  turnovers  can  be  made  as  fre- 
quently as  possible  on  a  small  investment.  Show  why. 
Get  local  data  for  use  on  this  topic,  and  enlarge  as  much 
as  needed. 

V.     COMMON  FACTORY  KNOWLEDGE 

This  auxiliary  information  is  given  in  addition  to  the  preceding 
material  to  all  employees  who  are  to  enter  the  factory.  It  is  some- 
what more  specific  in  character  so  that  the  workers  have  an  immedi- 
ate knowledge  which  will  not  only  serve  them,  but  will  help  them 
know  their  place  in  the  industrial  team  and  fill  it  intelligently  and 
satisfactorily  to  themselves. 

There  is  also  a  body  of  information  which  is  required  by  every 
machine  operator,  irrespective  of  the  particular  type  of  machine 
which  she  may  be  operating.  All  special  descriptions  of  machines 
for  example  will  appear  in  the  detailed  analysis  of  that  part  of  the 
production  duty  in  which  such  machines  are  used.  All  information 
which  would  otherwise  have  to  be  repeated  Avith  each  machine  has 
been  assembled  under  this  heading  for  convenience.  Likewise  with 
materials  used,  where  all  who  are  working  with  flannels,  or  cambrics, 
or  pongees,  would  need  to  know  the  properties  of  each  of  these  in 
order  to  handle  them  intelligently,  it  saves  effort  and  time  to  cover 
this  common  subject  matter  once  only. 

Topical  Outline 
1.    The  local  organization  for  production : 

Make  a  trip  over  the  factory  and  point  out  main  features,  then 
discuss  more  fully  in  school.     Study  the  following  chart. 


13 


CHART  OF  PRODUCT/ON  ORGANIZATION 


The  following  description  of  the  organization  will  add  further  to 
the  understanding  of  the  chart. 

a.  Purchasing  Agent 

Material  or  stock  is  bought  by  (name),  who  is  part  of  the 
office  staff.  Goods  on  arrival  are  sent  to  the  stores  de- 
partment for  record  and  distribution  as  needed. 

b.  Planning  and  Designing  Department 

Designs  for  garments  are  worked  out  in  a  division  of  the 
general  office.  When  a  design  is  approved  it  is  then  de- 
tailed onto  a  descriptive  sheet  showing  quantities,  kinds 
and  sizes  of  various  piece-goods,  trimmings,  buttons,  etc., 
required.  An  order  number  or  lot  number  is  assigned  to 
it,  and  the  descriptive  sheet  is  then  sent  to  the  store  room, 
along  with  a  master  work  chart  and  cutting  ticket.  Get 
these  and  discuss  samples  fully. 

c.  Stores  Department 

(1)  Requisitions  materials. 

(2)  Receives  and  enters  record  of  all  materials. 

(3)  Piece-goods    (yardage)   kept  in  stock  room  distinct 

from  small  stores. 

(4)  On  receipt  of  order  from  planning  department, 

(a)  Enters  order  or  lot  number  on  books. 

(b)  Sends  master  work  chart  and  cutting  ticket 

with  piece-goods  to  cutting  department. 

(c)  Retains  descriptive  sheet. 

(d)  Makes  out  size  ticket  for  the  lot  and  sends 

them  to  cutting  room. 


14 

(e)  Removes  from  store  by   perpetual   inventory 

system  (describe)  all  trimmings,  etc.,  indi- 
cated on  (c)  and  places  them  in  a  box  mark- 
ed with  the  lot  number.  This  goes  to  sew- 
ing department  on  request  of  desk  girl  when 
needed. 

(f)  Requisition  boxes  or  cartons  for  packing  the 

order  when  it  reaches  folding  department, 
d.     Cutting  Department 

This  is  the  department  in  which  production  actually  be- 
gins. The  large  room  is  filled  with  long  tables  on  which 
whole  webs  of  piece  goods  can  be  laid  up  one  upon  an- 
other until  two  or  three  inches  deep.  A  set  of  patterns 
is  laid  upon  the  lays  and  marked,  then  the  cutters  use  the 
cutting  machine  to  separate  all  the  parts,  following  the 
lines  very  carefully.  These  parts  are  assembled  into 
bundles  of  twenty-four  complete  garments,  and  the  neces- 
say  cut  trimmings  and  size  labels  which  go  with  them. 
The  tied  bundles  are  ticketed  with  lot  number  and  sent 
to  the  sewing  room  in  wheeled  trucks. 

A  picture  of  the  department  is  shown  in  the  following  table.  Pay- 
roll job  means  the  name  under  which  a  given  worker  is  identified. 
Sometimes  this  name  indicates  exactly  what  the  employee  works  at, 
but  in  many  cases  it  does  not,  so  the  names  of  all  the  jobs  each 
employee  works  at  are  placed  opposite  the  payroll  job  to  make  clear 
just  what  duties  the  payroll  job  includes. 

Cutting  Department 


No.  T~        Payroll  Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1     Layer 

Sort  yardage,  sort  colors,  check  quantities,  lay  up. 

2     1     Marker 

Select  patterns  according  to  master  work  chart,  check  yard- 

age,  mark  lays. 

3 

Cutter 

Cut  lays  with  machine,  trim  lays  with  short  knife. 

4 

Assembler 

Split  into  24's,  put  in  labels,  put  in  cut  trimming,  etc.,  attach 

(Trimmer) 

job  ticket. 

5 

Matcher 

Match  stripes   on   parts  of  fancy  shirts  before  cutter  cuts  to 

(Not  a  regular 

pattern  line. 

job) 

ft 

Transfer   boy 

Distribute  bundles  to  sewing  departments. 

e.  Overall  Department 

For  description  see  introduction  to  analysis  of  this  de- 
partment on  page  29. 

f.  Sleepingwear  Department 

For  description  see  introduction  to  analysis  of  this  de- 
partment on  pages  42  and  56. 

g.  Children's  Sleeper  Department 

For  description  see  introduction  to  analysis  of  this  de- 
ment 011  page  65. 
h.     Folding  Department 

For  description  see  introduction  to  analysis  of  this  de- 
ment on  page  74. 


15 

Machinist  Department 

While  this  department  is  not  directly  concerned  with  pro- 
duction, because  it  does  not  handle  the  goods,  yet  its 
indirect  relationship  is  very  intimate  because  the  service 
rendered  is  in  care  of  the  machines.  A  small  shop  is  pro- 
vided where  machines  can  be  taken  down  and  repaired, 
or  adjustments  made.  The  following  chart  indicates  the 
service  rendered. 


No.   1 

Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     I 

2     ' 

: 

Machinist 
Belt  boy 

Take   down    machines,   repair  parts,    replace   parts,   make   ad- 
justments, install  machines. 
Repair  belts,  oil  shafting  and  motors,  assist  on  repair  work, 
adiu^t  liehts.  minor  service  jobs. 

Stock  Room,  also  Shipping  Room 

This  department  receives  the  finished  goods  in  boxes, 
cartons  and  parcels  from  the  overall  and  folding  depart- 
ments. The  overalls  are  not  wrapped,  being  simply  tied 
in  dozens.  Goods  are  assembled  according  to  orders  re- 
ceived from  the  office  and  prepared  for  shipping. 
A  chart  of  the  department  shows  the  following  duties : 


No.   | 

Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1 

Stock  Clerk 

Receive  goods  from   factory,  place  them   in  stock  room,  pick 

| 

out  and  prepare  order  for  the  shipping  room. 

2     1 

Checker 

Check   order  sheet  with   goods  in   shipping   roan. 

3     1 

| 

Packer 

Wrap  parcels  and  tie  them,  fill  cases  with  cartons  or  wrapped 
bundles. 

4     1 

Receiving  Clerk 

Record  weights  and  numbers  of  cases. 

5     ! 

Shipping  Clerk 

Record  shipments. 

6     1 

Helper 

Open    empty   cases,   nail    up   cases,    brush   on    addresses,    load 

1 

wagons. 

2.    Materials  used  in  factory  production 
a.     Denim 

(1)  Used  for  overalls,  work  coats,  rompers. 

(2)  Bought  in  bales  of  1000  yards  each,  the  yardage  com- 

ing in  pieces  of  50  to  60  yards  each  in  length. 
Width,  28  inches. 

(3)  Described  in  catalog  as  two-twenty,  two-forty,  two- 

sixty  or  three  yard  denim,  meaning  heavy,  medium 
and  light  weight  goods  respectively,  and  referring 
to  fact  that  there  are  2.20  yards,  2.40  yards,  etc., 
to  a  pound  of  cloth. 

(4)  Customary  in  factory  to  refer  to  goods  by  lot  number 

t'»  which  the  special  kind  has  been  assigned  in  de- 
scriptive sheet,  as  \-102,  O-263.  P-3558,  etc. 

(5)  Manufacturers  will  guarantee  only  one  bale  of  vat- 

dyed  piece-poods  to  be  uniform  in  color,  hence 
when  lot  numbers  run  several  bales  it  becomes 
necessary  for  operator  to  match  colors,  to  see  that 
each  overall  suit  is  same  shade  throughout. 


16 

(6)  Some  denims  are  washed  in  a  solution  of  iron,  which 

when  dried  out  leaves  the  iron  in  the  cloth  to  make 
it  heavier.  This  iron  is  hard  on  sewing  machine 
needles,  dulling  them  rapidly.  Remedy  is  to  soap 
needle  or  use  as  fine  a  size  of  needle  as  will  stand 
up  against  the  drive. 

(7)  Kinds  used  are  plain  blue,  plain  white,  plain  khaki, 

blue  and  white  stripes. 

(8)  Close   weave   makes   the   goods   somewhat   stiff  and 

heavy  to  handle. 

(9)  Length  of  stitch,  10  to  14  to  the  inch. 
Flannelette 

(1)  Used  for  winter  sleeping  wear  for  men,  women  and 

children. 

(2)  Cases  contain  1500  to  L'OOO  yards,  50  to  60  yards  to  a 

piece.     "Width,  36  inches. 

(3)  Woven  and  napped  on  both  sides  so  that  there  is  no 

right  and  wrong  side  to  the  goods. 

(4)  Variety  is  secured  by  stripes  of  various  widths  and 

spaces.  Stripes  may  be  one  color  or  composed  of 
several  narrow  colored  stripes  together,  forming 
a  larger  stripe. 

(5)  Composite  stripes  are  two  kinds. 

(a)  Balanced,  in  which  there  is  uniform  arrange- 
ment of  the  narrow  stripes  on  each  side  of  a 
center  line. 

(1))  "One  way"  patterns,  in  which  there  is  no  sym- 
metrical arrangement. 

(6)  In  the  latter  case  parts  of  garments  requiring  to  be 

matched,  like  pocket  pieces,  can  only  be  placed 
"one  way"  when  attached.  Balanced  patterns  are 
preferred. 

(7)  Softness   of  the  weave   allows   the   sewing  machine 

thread  to  sink  easily  into  the  goods,  so  that  length 
of  stich  can  be  14  to  the  inch  and  still  do  a  good 
piece  of  Avork.  Cottons  and  harder  goods  require 
16-18  stitches  to  the  inch. 

(8)  Much  lint  gathers  on  the  machine  parts  when  using 

flannelette,  requiring  more  frequent  cleaning. 
Information  similar  to  the  above  should  be  secured  and 
given  on  the  following  :  prints,  cambrics,  muslins,  pongees, 
percales,   nainsooks,    jacquards,   silks    ,any   other   piece 
goods  made  up  into  garments. 
Sundry  materials  in  store  room 
(1)  Folding  Department 

Pins  are  bought  in  bulk  in  5-lb.  boxes,  20  boxes  to 


17 

(2)  Overall  Department 

(a)  Patent  buttons.     Bought   in   great  gross    (12 

gross)  packages,  25  packages  to  the  case. 
Buttons  and  tacks  in  separate  packages. 
Made  in  japanned,  brass,  or  nickel  finish. 
Sizes  measured  by  •' lines,"  a  line  being  one- 
fortieth  of  an  inch.  Two  sizes,  usually  22- 
line  and  27-line,  used  on  each  garment. 

(b)  Buckles,  loops,  snap  loops,  slides.     Bought  by 

double-gross  or  in  barrel  lots,  bulk ;  made  in 
brass  and  nickel. 

(c)  Elastic  webbing.     Bought   per  yard   by   1000 

yards,  in  50-yard  rolls.  Marked  to  order 
with  firm  name  and  space  marks  for  cutting 
into  lengths.  Widths  used  are  %",  1",  1%", 
!%"•  !%"•  Used  in  straps  or  suspenders. 
Cut  into  bundle  lengths  of  one  dozen  pieces 
by  store  clerk,  and  into  separate  pieces  by 
operator. 

(d)  Labels.     Paper  and  cloth  labels  are  printed  to 

order  with  firm  trademark  and  lot  number. 
Sizes  are  stamped  on  labels  with  rubber 
stamps  before  being  sent  to  cutting  room. 

(e)  Thread.     White,  black,  olive  drab  and" canary 

yellow  colors  used.  Size  of  thread  indicated 
by  number,  and  hyphenated  with  it  the 
number  of  cords  in  the  twist,  24-3,  36-3,  etc. 
Eight  hundred  and  forty  yards  of  thread  of 
any  size  is  arbitrarily  called  a  "hank."  If 
30  hanks  of  a  particular  size  of  thread  weigh 
one  pound,  then  that  size  is  said  to  be  No.  30 
thread,  etc.  This  is  also  called  the  ' '  count. ' ' 
Thread  may  be  glazed  (starch)  or  soft.  Top 
thread  (needle)  is  30-3,  soft,  and  comes  in 
9,600-yard  spools.  Spools  cost  10  cents  extra 
over  cones,  but  expense  is  saved  in  knotting 
trouble  as  it  comes  off  on  the  machine.  Bot- 
tom thread  (bobbin  or  looper)  is  36-3,  soft, 
and  comes  in  12,000-yard  cardboard  cones. 
The  way  it  is  wound  on  does  not  cause 
trouble  in  machine  and  saves  expense  for 
spools.  Buttonhole  thread  is  56-3,  glazed, 
for  the  Reece  machine,  and  30-3,  soft,  for 
Singer  machine ;  colors  black  and  bronze- 
brown.  Buttonhole  cord  is  a  heavy  black 
3-cord  which  is  sewn  in  around  edge  of  hole 
for  reinforcement  purpose. 


18 

(3)   Sleeping  wear  and  children's  sleeper  departments 

(a)  labels.     Bought   in  500,000  lots,   1000  labels 

to  the  roll.  Trademark  and  firm  name 
printed  on  them. 

(b)  Size    tabs.      Bought    locally    and    printed   in 

20,000  or  30,000  lots  with  the  sizes  and 
classes  such  as  "men's,"  ladies',  boy's, 
baby's,  etc.  Tabs  are  stuck  under  edge  of 
label  when  sewn  to  garment. 

(c)  Thread.     Top  is  60-3  and  80-3,  white,  soft,  on 

spools.  Bottom  is  70-3  and  80-3,  white,  soft, 
on  cones.  Unbleached  white  is  cheaper  and 
stronger  than  bleached,  and  is  used  on  flan- 
nelette where  possible.  Bleached  must  be 
used  on  cambrics  and  muslins.  Colored  cot- 
ton or  silk  thread  to  match  is  used  on  all 
garments  of  pongee,  silk,  etc.  Buttonhole 
thread  is  40-6,  white,  on  top  and  70-6,  white, 
on  bottom. 

(d)  Buttons.    Freshwater  native  pearl  buttons  are 

white  opalescent.  Japanese  pearl  buttons 
are  yellow  semi-transparent  and  higher 
grade  buttons  in  every  respect,  and  yet  can 
be  purchased  at  almost  same  price  because 
of  cheaper  labor.  Two-thirds  of  freshwater 
are  used  for  the  bulk  of  garments.  The 
higher  priced  garments  have  Japanese  but- 
tons. Ocean  pearl  buttons,  highest  grade  of 
American  make,  are  used  exclusively  on 
shirts.  Sizes  used  vary  with  position  on 
garment,  being  18-line,  20,  22,  24,  28  and 
30-line  diameters. 

(e)  Trimmings 

Mercerized  crochet  cotton,  Nos.  3  (coarse), 
11  and  20,  all  2-cord,  is  bought  in  bulk  in 
V^-lb.  cones  in  white  and  all  desired  colors. 
Smaller  quantities  bought  locally  in  balls. 
Used  for  fancy  stitching  on  garments,  like 
briar,  wave,  hem  and  shell  stitching.  Ex- 
plain process  and  purpose  of  mercerizing 
yarn. 

Feather  stitch  braid  (silk  thread  designs  in 
white  and  colors  on  cotton  braid  3/16"  to 
%"  wide)  is  frequently  sewn  on  garments. 
Woven  braids  in  two  forms,  bought  bulk  in 
gross  yards  on  spools. 
Rik-rak  is  a  zig-zag  weave  of  silk  thread 


19 

over  a  heavy  straight  cotton  cord,  and  is 
sewn  direct  onto  garments.  Colors  as  de- 
sired. 

Edging  and  plain  braids  in  white  and  colors 
for  sewing  along  edges  of  garments 
Middy  laces  for  pajunions  and  pajuiirttes. 
Ribbons,  plain  and  fancy,  white  and  colored, 
for  knots,  bows,  etc. 

Elastic  for  bottoms  of  pajunettes  and  bloom- 
ers, with  straight  lining  for  covering  same. 
Bought  in  2-gross  yard  spools. 
Bindings,  straight  and  bias  cotton,  for  doub- 
ling over  edges  and  sewing  to  garment.  Bias 
binding  is  made  by  cutting  piece-goods  at  an 
angle  of  45  degrees  in  widths  of  about  two 
feet  and  sewing  the  selvages  end  to  end 
without  overlapping.  Special  machine  stag- 
gers the  needle  alternately  across  the  joined 
edges.  The  bias  strip  is  then  rolled  on  a 
tube  and  sawn  off  into  y2",  %",  I",  etc., 
rolls.  Edges  are  raw. 

Fringe  is  a  narrow  cotton  tape  with  silk  or 
cotton  fringe  along  one  edge,  bought  in 
half-gross  yards  on  a  card.  Used  for  sew- 
ing to  ends  of  pajama  girdles.  Is  cut  up  by 
operator  as  needed. 

Loops  (frogs)  in  white  and  colors  are  bought 
in  gross-lots  for  sewing  on  buttonhole  posi- 
tions on  pajama  jackets. 
3.    Equipment 

a.     Instruction  about  construction,  operation  and  care  of  ma- 
chines 
(1)   Principal  parts  of  machine  are: 

(a)  Head,  the  sewing  part,  fastened  to  table  top. 

(b)  Transmitter,  the  power  link,  fastened  to  under 

side  of  table. 
Control  system,  the  foot  treadles  or  knee  lifts 

which  start  and  stop  action. 
Thread  standard,  from  floor  or  table  top,  hold- 
ing  two,   four   or   six   spools   according   to 
machine. 
Principal  parts  of  the  head  arc: 

(a)  Base,  the  iron  casting  supporting  all  machin- 
ery and  attachments.  Parts  called  bed, 
column  and  arm.  Beds  may  be  flat  (regular 
type)  or  special  (shaped  to  do  special  work) 


20 

as  on  buttonhole,  felling  or  tacking  ma- 
chines. 

(1))  Main  Shaft  and  Hand  wheel.  The  shaft  lies  in 
the  arm,  with  handwheel  for  hand  control 
and  belt  groove  at  right  or  back.  On  the 
shaft  are  all  needed  cams  to  change  revolv- 
ing motion  into  reciprocating  motion.  One 
cam  operates  a  link  down  through  the  col- 
umn to  the  underside  of  bed,  controlling 
feed  dog  and  shuttle  or  looper.  Another 
cam  operates  the  needle.  Other  devices  on 
special  machines  may  be  operated  by  cams 
or  gears. 

(c)  Presser  foot  is  a  smooth  shoe  which  is  attached 

to  the  bottom  end  of  an  upright  sliding  bar 
just  behind  the  needle.  A  spring  presses 
this  shoe  downwards  to  keep  the  cloth 
against  the  surface  of  the  bed.  The  needle 
usually  is  so  placed  as  to  work  through  an 
opening  in  the  foot.  It  is  lifted  to  insert 
cloth  by  a  link  or  rod  and  chain  to  either 
a  treadle  or  a  knee-lift. 

(d)  Feed  dog  is  the  serrated  moving  part  which 

comes  up  through  the  bed  beneath  the 
presser  foot  far  enough  to  grip  the  cloth 
against  the  foot  and  draw  it  back  after  the 
needle  has  been  withdrawn.  Its  motion  is 
compound  reciprocating,  first  rising,  second 
moving  backward,  third  dropping,  fourth 
moving  forward.  The  feed  dog  controls  the 
length  of  stitch,  as  its  back  and  forward  mo- 
tion can  be  shortened  or  lengthened  by  a 
stitch  regulator. 

(e)  Stitch  regulator  is  an  adjustment  which  alters 

the  proportion  of  the  link  motion  operating 
the  feed  dog  so  that  it  moves  through  a 
smaller  or  greater  space.  In  some  machines 
the  regulator  is  placed  on  the  end  of  the 
main  shaft  outside  the  handwheel,  and  in 
others  on  the  front  of  the  column  just  near 
the  bed. 

(f )  Tensions  are  regulating  devices  for  controlling 

the  "pull"  or  tautness  of  the  thread,  in 
which  the  thread  passes  between  two  plates 
or  discs  which  have  pressure  upon  them  by 
spring  and  adjusting  nut.  One  is  on  the 


21 

arm  for  the  top  thread  and  the  other  under 
the  bed  for  the  bottom  thread. 

(g)  Take-ups  are  the  moving  eyelets  through 
which  the  thread  must  pass,  for  the  purpose 
first,  of  drawing  thread  through  the  tension 
as  the  needle  descends;  second  of  slacking 
off  thread  for  the  looping  operation  indi- 
cated by  the  slight  backing  up  of  the  needle ; 
and  third,  to  take  up  the  thread  taut  again 
as  the  needle  rises.  One  take-up  is  on  the 
arm,  and  the  other  beneath  the  bed.  Mo- 
tions of  both  tally  exactly  with  that  of  the 
needle.  There  is  110  lower  take-up  on  a 
shuttle  machine,  that  action  being  provided 
in  the  motion  of  the  shuttle  itself. 

(h)  Looper  and  shuttle.  Two  distinct  methods  of 
feeding  the  lower  thread  to  the  needle.  The 
shuttle  is  a  revolving  or  reciprocating  part 
containing  a, bobbin  or  spool  of  thread,  and 
so  timed  as  to  pass  its  point  or  nose  through 
the  loop  of  the  upper  thread  when  formed 
by  the  partial  lowering  of  the  needle.  Thread 
is  wound  onto  the  bobbins  and  put  into  the 
shuttle  as  required.  In  the  looper  system 
the  lower  thread  comes  direct  from  the 
spool  to  the  lower  tension,  through  the  take- 
up  and  into  the  looper,  which  passes  il 
behind  the  needle  thread  in  exactly  the 
same  manner  as  the  upper  thread  came 
through  the  upper  series.  Further  descrip- 
tion of  these  mechanisms  is  impossible  with- 
out the  machine  to  demonstrate. 

(i)  Bobbin  winders  on  the  shuttle  machines  are 
fastened  to  the  table  so  as  to  receive  motion 
by  friction  against  the  handwheel.  The 
thread  passes  through  a  tension  onto  a  bob- 
bin, which  when  filled  automatically  throws 
"the  winder  out  of  contact  with  the  hand- 
wheel. 

(j)  Multiple-needle  bar.  Some  machines  sew  two 
and  three  rows  of  stitches,  by  having  that 
many  needles  in  the  bar.  In  these  machines 
the  looper  system  is  used  beneath  the  bed, 
so  that  either  two,  four,  or  six  spools  of 
thread  are  fed  directly  into  the  needle  ac- 
cording as  it  is  a  one,  two  or  three-needle 
machine. 


22 

(3)  Transmitter 

(a)  Purpose  to  transfer  power  from  the  line  shaft 

and  control  its  use  or  non-use.  It  is  simply 
a  jack  shaft  on  hangers  under  the  table  and 
guarded  at  all  danger  points. 

(b)  Driven  Pulley.     Either  a  flat  or  grooved  belt 

pulley  connected  with  the  line  shaft  by  a  1" 
flat  or  a  round  leather  belt,  and  running 
loose  on  the  jack  shaft.  It  runs  continuous- 
ly with  the  line  shaft. 

(c)  Driving  Wheel.     A  grooved  wheel  fastened  to 

the  jack  shaft  and  belted  by  round  leather 
through  holes  in  the  table  to  the  handwheel 
011  the  head.  It  stands  still  when  machine 
is  out  of  action. 

(d)  Clutch  and  brake.     By  special  device  on  side 

of  the  two  wheels,  called  a  clutch,  the  two 
can  be  locked  together  so  as  to  run  as  one 
wheel,  Momentum  of  the  machine  is  check- 
ed so  as  to  stop  when  the  clutch  is  released 
by  immediate  application  of  a  brake.  Loos- 
ening the  clutch  applies  the  brake  at  the 
same  time,  and  vice  versa. 

(e)  Speed  ratios.     Machines    are    constructed   to 

run  at  certain  capacities,  usually  2500  to 
3500  stitches  per  minute  of  continuous  run- 
ning, and  to  maintain  that  speed  always 
while  actually -sewing.  With  a  mainshaft 
running  at  a  certain  known  speed,  and  the 
machine  speed  kiiowrn,  only  a  certain  size 
for  each  of  the  two  pulleys  of  the  trans- 
mitter will  give  the  right  speed.  Two-step 
transmitters  are  sometimes  made  so  that 
machines  may  run  at  different  speeds  ac- 
cording to  the  goods  being  put  through.  In 
this  case  the  line  shaft  and  driven  pulley 
have  each  two  steps  (called  a  two-step  cone) 
on  wrhich  the  belt  may  be  placed. 

(4)  Control  system 

(a)  Transmitter  treadle.     A  foot  tread  linked  to 

the  clutch  and  brake  of  the  transmitter. 
Pressure  of  the  foot  releases  the  brake  and 
cuts  in  the  clutch.  Removal  of  the  pressure 
reverses  the  action. 

(b)  Presser  foot  control.    Already  described  un- 

der presser  foot,  Either  a  foot  lift  or  a  knee 
lift, 


23 


(c)  All  machines  have  special  controls  and  ad- 
justments which  can  only  be  taught  by  dem- 
onstration on  those  machines  at  which  the 
learner  is  to  be  employed. 

(5)  Attachments 

(a)  Folders.     Very  many  forms  for  special  duty, 

and  only  describable  when  actual  part  is 
present.  They  are  made  of  thin  sheet  metal 
formed  in  such  a  way  as  to  lead  the  edge 
of  the  cloth  under  the  needle  in  some  ar- 
ranged manner.  Single  scroll  folders  turn 
only  one  edge  of  cloth.  Double  scroll  fold- 
ers work  two  edges  together  so  as  to  form 
seams  of  various  kinds  and  sizes.  Double 
scrolls  may  be  either  right  or  left,  that  is, 
make  upper  side  of  seam  face  right  or  left 
of  the  needle.  Fastened  as  a  rule  to  bed 
just  in  front  of  the  presser  foot.  Vary  in 
weight  and  strength  according  to  goods  to 
be  handled.  Must  be  placed  "fair"  so  that 
seam  or  hem  is  correctly  under  the  needle 
Must  be  in  some  cases  adjusted  for  runs  of 
thick  and  thin  goods. 

(b)  Combination  presser  foot  and  folder.       Used 

for  pleating  work  in  shirts. 

(c)  Gatherer.       Works    in    combination    with    a 

double  folder,  where  one  part  of  garment 
must  be  gathered  in  as  it  is  sewn  between 
two  other  hemmed  edges.  Used  alone  on 
any  piece  of  goods.  Operates  by  lever  at- 
tached to  bottom  of  needle  bar. 

(d)  Numerous   attachments  for  special   purposes 

described  only  to  those  who  will  operate 
them. 

(6)  Needles 

(a)  Needles  are  marked  by  numbers  according  to 
size,  ranging  from  No.  2  (smallest)  to  No.  8 
for  garment  making  purposes.  The  size  of 


Needle 
Number 

Thread  Sizes 

Cotton              |                Silk 

2 

150-100 

000-00 

2% 

100-  90 

00 

3 

90-  80 

0 

3% 

80-  70 

A 

4 

70-  60 

A 

4% 

60-  50 

5 

50-  40 

Q 

6 

7 

40-  80 
80-  24 

g 

8 

24-  16 

E 

24 

the  eye  has  a  distinct  ratio  to  diameter  of 
the  needel,  hence  certain  sizes  of  needles 
are  best  used  with  certain  sizes  of  thread. 
A  table  is  given  to  indicate  this  relation. 

(b)  The  method  of  setting  needles  in  the  machines 

is  the  same  in  principle,  but  may  vary 
somewhat  in  application  on  different  ma- 
chines. A  set  screw  is  tightened  against 
the  shank  of  the  needle  after  it  is  placed  in 
a  hole  or  a  groove  in  the  needle-bar  Direc- 
tions which  go  with  the  machine  indicate 
method  of  placing  the  needle  at  the  right 
height  to  have  the  eye  make  the  loop  in  cor- 
rect place  for  the  shuttle  point  or  looper  to 
pass  through  it. 

(c)  Any  facts  regarding  essential  shape  or  size  of 

the  needle  for  specific  purposes  should  be 
taught. 

(d)  Method   of  threading   needle   is  a  point  for 

careful  instruction.  It  includes  how  to 
shape  end  of  the  thread,  how  to  hold  thread 
properly,  best  method  of  passing  it  into  eye 
and  drawing  through,  best  position  of  eye 
and  light  to  strike  the  eye  "fair." 

(7)  Line  Shaft 

Placed  beneath  a  double  row  of  machine  tables  and 
serving  two  rows  of  machines.  Motor  drive  con- 
nected usually  at  one  end  of  line  shaft.  Safety 
precautions. 

(8)  Threading  machine 

(a)  Upper  thread.     Each  learner  must  be  taught 

to  thread  her  individual  machine.  The 
fundamental  things  about  threading  are  that 
thread  goes  first  through  a  guide,  second 
through  a  tension,  third  through  a  take-up, 
and  fourth  through  guides  to  needle. 

(b)  Lower  thread.     In   general,   take   out   throat 

plate,  remove  empty  bobbin,  place  full  bob- 
bin and  close  shuttle,  draw  thread  through 
tension,  turn  hand  wheel  till  needle  brings 
up  lower  thread,  replace  throat  plate. 

(9)  Feeding 

(a)  Underply  must  always  be  retarded  and  over- 
ply  allowed  to  run  through  freely.  Reason 
is  that  the  feed  dog  pulls  the  ply  next  to  it, 
while  the  presser  foot  restrains  the  upper 
ply  giving  a  tendency  to  slide  and  pucker. 


25 

Only  exception  to  this  is  when  the  underply 
is  bias  goods,  in  which  case  it  should  be  al- 
lowed to  run  through  freely. 

(b)  Similar  instruction,  with  intelligent  reasons 
in  all  cases,  on  method  of  operating  when 
starting  seam,  turning  corners,  removing 
work,  tacking  with  presser  foot  lifted,  etc. 

(10)  Oiling  Machine 

All  places  requiring  oil  should  be  located  and 
method  of  getting  to  them  with  oil-can  demon- 
strated. The  grease  cup  on  the  transmitter  is  also 
to  be  explained.  Frequency  of  oiling  is  deter- 
mined by  the  need,  and  once  established,  every 
operator  should  conform  to  the  schedule.  All 
parts  do  not  require  oil  with  the  same  frequency, 
so  that  judgment  as  to  when  and  how  much  oil  to 
apply  is  an  essential  teaching  point.  Garments 
may  be  ruined  by  spattering,  and  machines  may 
be  ruined  by  burnt  bearings.  There  is  a  proper 
condition  which  must  be  learned  and  maintained. 

(11)  Cleaning  machine 

The  machine  is  the  operator's  friend.  When  treat- 
ed rightly  it  responds  by  increased  earnings. 
Xeglect  it  and  it  cannot  serve  so  well.  If  factory 
rules  require  that  machines  be  given  a  periodic 
cleaning,  the  ruling  has  been  made  in  the  best 
interests  of  all.  It  should  be  observed  only  as  the 
least  that  might  be  done.  Lint,  dust,  grit,  excess 
and  used  oil  gather  and .  reduce  earning  power. 
Two  minutes  spent  in  cleaning  occasionally  will 
return  several  times  that  in  earnings.  Learners 
should  be  taught  how  to  clean,  and  required  to 
clean  their  school  machine,  say  daily,  as  a  pre- 
liminary to  beginning  work.  Each  cleaning  should 
be  inspected  and  graded. 

(12)  Trouble  Shooting 

(a)  Thread    breaks   repeatedly.     Look  for   rough 

needle  hole  in  throat  plate,  worn  eye  in 
needle,  tension  too  tight  or  grooved,  uneven 
size  of  thread,  knots,  snarls,  etc.  Remedy 
for  each  case  when  found. 

(b)  Skip  stitches.     Look  for  cause   of  looper  or 

shuttle  failing  to  get  through  loop  made  by 
needle,  or  maybe  looper  tension  is  too  slack, 
allowing  more  thread  to  come  through  than 
lower  take-up  can  control.  Remedy  for 
cause  when  located. 


26 

(c)   Similar   instruction   for   till   forms  of   trouble 

which  may  arise, 
b.     Cafeteria  and  Recreation  Rooms 

(1)   Necessary  description  and  rules  as  to  its  use. 

4.  Routing  System 

a.  General  plan 

(1)  Route  of  material  from  cutting  room  to  top  floor 
thence  by  stages  back  to  ground  floor.  Banks  of 
similar  machines  installed  on  tables  in  number  suf- 
ficient to  get  balanced  production.  Stationary 
bins  at  ends  of  machine  tables  and  close  to  examin- 
ing tables  for  storing  bundles  between  processes. 
Counter  between  tables  and  bins  at  which  desk 
girls  make  records  of  bundles  handled  into  and 
out  of  bins,  Avith  record  of  operators  and  processes. 

b.  Methods  of  transportation 

(1)  Trucks  with  racks  or  boxes  for  bringing  stock  to  and 

from  cutting  room,  and  finally  to  stock  room  as 
finished  product. 

(2)  Shutes  for  passage  from  floor  to  floor. 

(3)  Bundles  carried  by  individuals  to  and  from  machines, 

examining  tables,  folding  tables,  boxing  tables,  etc. 

5.  Card  and  Ticket  Systems 

All  lots  and  bundles  are  distinguished  by  cards  bearing  descrip- 
tive numbers,  and  work  cards  for  the  payroll  number  of  each 
operator  performing  certain  productive  tasks  on  the  goods. 
Necessary  instruction  regarding  these  cards  must  be  included 
here,  samples  of  same  being  prepared  for  demonstration,  and 
practice  afforded  in  filling  them  out. 

6.  Employment  and  training 

a.  All  beginners  must  be  trained   to  produce  at  a  profit  to 

themselves.  From  the  first  they  should  know  that  they 
are  not  profitable  workers  for  themselves,  and  a  distinct 
loss  to  the  company.  The  piece  rate  earnings  represent 
their  real  value  to  themselves  and  the  company.  The 
cost  of  training  and  any  other  wages  than  piece  rates 
earned  are  therefore  given  to  them  without  any  returned 
value. 

b.  The  company  considers  that  a  girl  cannot  learn  to  earn 

profitably  to  herself  at  the  piece  rates  under  less  than 
seven  weeks,  and  in  order  to  be  fair  it  pays  a  bonus  or 
free  gift  in  addition  to  the  amount  earned.  The  schedule 
of  wages  paid  during  the  training  period  is  as  follows: 

Week  Piece  rate  earnings  Bonus 

1st Record  of  bundles  sewn  and $7.00 

2nd Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 6.00 

3rd Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 5.00 

4th Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 4.00 


27 

5th Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 3.00 

6th Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 2.00 

7th Record  of  bundles  sewn  and 1.00 

8th Record  of  bundles  sewn  and none 

Get  actual  figures  of  several  cases  to  show  constancy  of  the  sum. 

c.  Piece  rate  system  is  established   to  make  it  possible  for 

girls  to  earn  according  to  their  skill.  By  it  a  certain 
price  is  set  for  doing  a  piece  or  unit  or  perhaps  a  dozen 
pieces.  This  price  is  established  in  as  fair  a  manner  as 
can  be  found.  Two  methods  are  used  in  setting  the  rate, 
each  of  which  is  intended  to  find  the  average  speed  of 
production  and  to  set  opposite  that  average  a  fair  wage. 

(1)  Experienced  girls  picked  at  random  (say  six)  are  set 

to  work  upon  bundles  of  the  same  kind,  and  a 
record  of  the  time  of  each  girl  is  kept.  This  trial 
is  repeated  several  times  (say  four)  and  the  time 
of  each  girl  is  kept.  The  time  of  the  twenty-four 
records  is  then  added  and  a  fair  wage  set  for  the 
time  required  to  make  twenty-four  bundles.  The 
piece  rate  or  rate  per  dozen  would  be  one-forty- 
eighth  of  this  amount. 

Examples  of  these  should  be  worked  out  as  prob- 
lems with  actual  data  to  show  how  it  is  done. 
Knowledge  satisfies. 

(2)  A  skilled  girl  is  put  at  the  new  work  on  a  time  basis. 

The  amount  of  work  which  she  does  is  considered 
to  be  80%  of  what  she  will  do  when  she  gets  up 
to  her  full  speed.  This  amount  which  she  has  done 
is  taken  as  the  amount  required  to  earn  the  wage 
for  that  time.  That  is,  the  normal  rate  is  set  at  4/5 
of  a  high  speed  day's  work  for  a  day's  pay.  The 
incentive  will  be  to  earn  more  than  the  day's  pay 
by  doing  better  than  4/5  of  a  day's  work. 
Examples  are  needed  to  make  clear  how  this 
method  works  out  in  actual  practice. 

d.  Relation  of  piece  rate  to  turnover 

It  is  essential  that  employees  get  clearly  in  mind  that 
quantity  production  affects  the  making  cost  per  unit  in 
a  way  that  is  frequently  forgotten  or  neglected.  If  a 
company  invests  $150,000  in  a  factory  to  make  garments 
and  the  turnover  in  a  year  is  100,000  dozen,  it  has  to 
figure  very  closely  on  the  making  cost.  An  item  in  the 
price  even  as  small  as  one  cent  per  garment  means  $12.000 
difference  in  the  making  cost  for  the  year.  If  the  com- 
pany had  been  making  6%  on  its  investment  and  had  to 
absorb  such  an  amount  it  would  mean  that  the  6%  would 
be  wiped  out  and  a  2%  loss  on  the  year's  business  would 


28 

take  its  place.  Hence  the  rates  have  to  be  considered 
carefully  for  1/8  cents  here  and  !/4  cent  there  per  garment. 
A  series  of  questions  taken  from  actual  rates  and  with 
the  company's  actual  invested  capital  should  be  given  to 
drive  this  point  home. 

e.  Factory  rules 

Every  employee  is  required  to  conform  to  a  number  of 
regulations  which  have  been  put  into  effect  from  time  to 
time  as  need  arose.  They  were  not  made  up  arbitrarily 
at  one  time,  and  enforced  just  for  the  purpose  of  showing 
a  desire  to  rule  things.  Every  rule  has  a  reason,  and 
each  employee  should  be  informed  before  going  into 
actual  production  what  rules  there  are,  and  have  a  reason 
given  for  the  existence  of  each  rule.  Furnish  a  printed 
or  mimeographed  copy  for  each  employee,  but  do  more 
than  hand  over  a  copy.  Teach  the  reasons. 
There  is  also  the  matter  of  courtesy  and  general  factory 
etiquette.  Rules  do  not  cover  everything,  and  there  is 
much  which  is  left  to  the  judgment  and  good  sense  of 
every  employee  in  regard  to  relations  with  others.  Many 
local  examples  of  desirable  conduct  should  be  collected 
and  discussed  with  every  employee. 

f.  Safety  and  shop  hygiene 

Aside  from  such  rules  as  have  been  made  governing  safe- 
ty, it  is  necessary  to  give  some  training  in  first  aid  and  in 
general  habits  of  careful  action.  There  should  be  fire 
drill  for  the  entire  force  occasionally,  and  every  new  em- 
ployee needs  instruction  on  points  connected  with  such 
drill.  Some  of  this  instruction  will  be  given  when  in- 
structing about  use  of  the  machines,  but  there  is  also 
need  for  some  time  being  given  to  formal  discussion  of 
principles  of  safety  as  applied  in  the  particular  plant. 

g.  Upgrading  and  promotion 

Provision  should  be  made  for  training  girls  provided  they 
show  ability  and  ambition  to  work  up  in  the  service  of 
the  company.  A  promotional  schedule  for  such  training 
ought  to  be  worked  out  and  the  objective  kept  clearly  in 
mind  by  foreladies,  instructors,  management  and  the 
candidate  herself.  Systematic  preparation  for  super- 
visory positions  will  surely  pay  for  effort  expended  in 
this  way. 

h.  State  and  Federal  laws  governing  safety,  employment, 
workmen's  compensation,  housing,  etc. 

i.  Interpretation  of  graphs  and  charts  showing  production 
records  of  quantity,  perfects  and  imperfects,  and  other 
types. 


29 

VI.     DETAILED  ANALYSIS  OF  CERTAIN  DEPARTMENTS 

Elsewhere  it  was  stated  that  machine  operators  should  be  familiar 
with  the  construction  of  a  garment  from  first  to  last — not  in  the 
sense  of  being  able  to  make  it  necessarily,  but  so  that  her  own  part 
of  the  process  may  be  properly  located  together  with  its  significance 
and  relation  to  those  coming  before  and  after.  An  analysis  has  been 
made  of  those  departments  where  girls  are  employed  so  that  these 
details  might  be  available.  The  operations  are  described  in  such  a 
way  as  might  be  called  a  Standard  Operation  Sheet,  though  that 
was  not  the  purpose.  They  describe  operations  as  they  are  now 
performed.  This  analysis  meets  two  needs,  first,  as  indicated  above ; 
and  second,  to  provide  a  basis  for  more  thorough  instruction1  on  spe- 
cific operations  by  noting  points  which  might  otherwise  escape  at- 
tention. 

In  this  study  there  is  no  repetition  of  data  which  is  general  enough 
to  appear  in  Section  V.  In  any  job  where  such  information  is  re- 
quired, but  is  not  peculiar  to  this  job  alone,  the  fact  is  inferred  by 
the  expression,  " nothing  special"  or  "nothing  additional." 

Overall  Department 

Three  types  of  overalls  are  made,  namely  the  pant  overall,  the  bib 
overall,  and  the  one-piece  overall.  The  pant  overall  comes  only  to 
the  waist  line.  The  bib  overall  is  waist  high  at  the  back,  but  has 
a  bib  covering  the  chest.  Usually  no  jacket  is  worn  with  this 
garment,  but  it  may  be  worn.  The  one-piece  overall  is  a  continuous 
garment,  buttoning  from  neck  to  crotch. 

The  making  of  a  complete  bib  overall  may  be  described  by  steps 
as  follows : 


No. 

Payroll  Job 

Work  Jobs 

1 

Pocket  girl 

Sew  on  hip  and  rule  pockets. 

2 

First  part  girl 

Hem  side  facings,  put  on  seat-pieces,  make  and  sew  in  fron' 

swinpr  pockets,  sew  in  fly,  hem  button  side. 

3 

Seamer 

Join   backs  together,   join    fronts   and   backs   together   at  out- 

side seams,  join  halves   of  bib  together. 

4 

Second   part  girl 

Hem   bib,  make  and  sew  on   bib-pocket,   join   fronts  together, 

join  bib  to  front,  sew  on  backhand,  tack  outside  seams. 

5 

Feller 

Join    fronts   and   backs   together   at   inside   seams. 

6 

Hemmer 

Hem  bottoms  of  legs. 

7 

Examiner 

Examine    all    previous    workmanship,    check    for    defects    in 

goods. 

8 

Buttonholer 

Make    fly    (for    first    part    girl),    make    buttonholes    in    strap 

tabs,    make    side    opening    buttonholes,    make    buttonhole 

for  watch   chain. 

9 

Marker 

Mark   for  buttons. 

10 

Button  tacker 

Put  on  patent  buttons. 

11 

Strap  maker 

Make  suspenders  or  straps. 

12 

Buckler 

Put  slides  and  loops  on  straps. 

13 

Sorter 

Sort   all   overalls   by  sizes,   tie   dozens   after   folding,    pack    in 

truck  for  stock  room. 

14 

Folder 

Put  straps  on  bib,  fold,  stack  in  dozens  of  uniform  size. 

The  overalls  to  be  made  up  come  from  the  cutting  room  in  bundles 
of  twenty-fours,  each  bundle  having  in  it  all  the  parts  which  are 


30 

to  be  sewn  together  to  make  twenty-four  complete  overalls.  Tln-iv 
is  a  tag  with  each  bundle  to  show  the  lot  number,  bundle  number, 
and  blank  spaces  for  the  payroll  numbers  of  the  operators  who  make 
up  particular  parts.  Each  bundle  is  opened  and  the  parts  distrib- 
uted to  those  operators  who  have  particular  things  to  do  on  them. 
After  an  operator  finishes  her  part  of  the  work  on  each  of  the 
twenty-four  overalls,  the  parts  on  which  she  has  worked  are  tied 
into  a  bundle  with  the  operator's  number  written  on  the  card,  and 
turned  in  to  the  desk  girl,  who  makes  a  record  before  giving  out 
the  bundle  to  the  next  operator. 

DETAILED   JOB   ANALYSIS 

In  actual  factory  production  the  overalls  are  made  by  units  or 
bundles  of  twenty-four  pairs.  The  operator  does  some  operations 
singly.  That  is  it  is  repeated  twenty-four  times  before  the  next 
operation  is  begun.  Sometimes  the  operations  go  in  pairs,  that  is, 
it  is  best  to  do  two  of  them  on  one  piece  of  goods  while  it  is  under 
the  machine  than  to  do  only  one  before  proceeding  to  a  similar  piece 
of  the  next  pair  of  overalls.  Similarly  it  is  possible  to  have  oper- 
ations grouped  in  threes,  fours  and  perhaps  fives.  There  is  always 
a  great  need  for  study  to  group  these  operations  in  the  best  way. 
Where  pieces  are  cut  in  pairs,  as  in  sleeves,  with  rights  and  lefts  it 
is  usual  to  go  through  an  operation  alternately  on  a  right  and  then 
on  a  left  or  vice  versa,  until  the  twenty-four  pairs  of  rights  and  lefts 
have  been  put  through. 

In  the  detailed  analysis  which  follows  it  is  not  always  possible  to 
indicate  exactly  a  factory  process.  The  orders  will  appear  as  if 
only  one  pair  of  overalls  is  being  made,  but  the  reader  should  be 
able  to  visualize  the  process  with  a  "factory  eye." 

PAYROLL  JOB  -POCKET  GIRL 

The  pocket  girl  operates  a  two-needle  machine,  which  sews  two 
rows  of  stitches  about  W  apart.  She  makes  and  sews  two  hip- 
pockets  and  a  rule-pocket  onto  the  backs  of  the  overall. 

1.  Hem  top  edge  of  hip-pockets:     Put  pocket  outside  on  machine 

right  side  up.     Fold  %"  under  and  stitch  once  across. 

2.  Hem  slanting  face  of  rule  pocket:     As  in  1. 

3.  Sew  on  left  hip-pocket :     Put  left  back  in  machine  right  side 

up.  Place  pocket  with  top  edge  at  punch-marks.  Folding 
under  edge  in  front  of  the  needle,  tack  right  top  corner, 
stitch  around  pocket  to  left  top  and  tack. 

4.  Sew  on  right  hip-pocket :     As  in  3,  on  right  back. 

5.  Sew  on  rule-pocket :     Place  pocket  just  below  right  hip-pocket 

even  with  outside  edge  of  back.  Folding  in  edges,  tack  and 
sew  down  and  around  from  side-seam  corner  to  lefl  top 
corner  then  across  top  to  slanting  face  and  tack. 


31 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Material — hip  and  rule-pocket  pieces,  backs,  white  cotton  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  flat-bed  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — hemming,   folding  under,   turning   in,   separating, 

pairing,  stitching,  tacking. 

Location — top  edge,  right  side  of  cloth  up,  slanting  face,  left 
and  right  side  of  garment,  punch-marks,  right  and  left  top 
corners,  below,  outside  edge,  side  seam. 
Stock : 

Recognition — plain  blue,  white  or  khaki  denim,  striped  denim, 
weight  by  description  on  tags,  all  parts  by  shape,  rights  and 
lefts,  No.  30  upper  thread,  No.  36  lower  or  loop  thread. 
Working  properties — cloth  is  heavy  and  somewhat  stiff  for  fold- 
ing, dulling  and  breaking  needles  frequently. 
Safety :     Folding  under  and  hemming  is  done  with  fingers,  which 

are  protected  by  a  needle  guard. 
Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing :     None. 

Mathematics :     Folding  under  %"  by  eye,  spacing  pockets  side- 
wise  accurate  to  1/4"  either  way. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FIRST   PART   GIRL 

The  first-part  girl  makes  and  joins  together  various  parts  of  both 
fronts  and  backs  of  the  overall,  operating  a  one-needle  machine. 
Most  of  the  work  is  on  the  fronts,  as  the  fly,  swing  pockets  and  fac- 
ing of  side  openings.  On  larger  sized  overalls  the  cloth  is  not  wide 
enough  to  cut  the  backs  out  complete,  so  small  triangular  pieces 
have  to  be  added  to  the  crotch  or  seat.  The  cutters  make  small 
notches  on  edge  of  cloth  at  all  necessary  points  to  locate  positions 
for  joining  or  folding. 

1.  Sew  on  seat-pieces:     Put  left  back  inside  the  machine  wrong 

side  up,  placing  corresponding  seat-piece  beneath  it  right 
side  up,  and  seam  edge  extending  out  about  %".  Stitch 
once  down  and  pull  out  the  seat-piece  from  beneath  into 
place.  Move  back  piece  around  to  outside  position  on  the 
machine,  fold  edge  of  seat-piece  seam  flat  and  sew  down 
along  the  edge.  Repeat  with  right  back  piece.  Trim  off 
ends  of  seams. 

2.  Hem  side  facings  on  backs:     Put  right  back  inside  machine 

wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  hem  for  side  opening  Vi"  wide  at 
lower  side  notch  and  as  far  as  notch  on  top  of  back.  Stitch 
down  from  top  and  out  at  bottom  edge  of  hem  (edging  out). 
Repeat  with  left  back,  sewing  upwards  from  bottom  of  fac- 
ing. 

3.  Sewing  swing-pocket  facings  to  drill:     Put  drill  flat  on  ma 

chine,  inside  of  pocket  face  up.      Lay  denim  facing  on  drill 


32 

right  side  up  with  angular  corners  and  edges  corresponding. 
Stitch  around  inner  edge  of  facing.  Make  rights  and  lefts 
in  pairs. 

4.  Make  button  side  of  fly :     Place  right  front  inside  on  machine 

wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  from  side  cut  to  notch  on  top. 
Turn  in  edge  of  this  facing  and  stitch  from  top  down  and 
edge  out  at  bottom. 

5.  Make  button  hole  side  of  fly :     Put  left  front  inside  on  machine 

wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  from  side  cut  to  notch  011  top. 
Lay  fly  (see  button-hole  girl)  over  this  fold  with  its  folded 
edge  1/16"  inside  the  lower  fold.  Stitch  from  edge  at  bot- 
tom end  of  fly  up  just  back  of  the  buttonholes  straight  out 
at  top  edge.  Trim  off  extra  goods  at  top  end. 

6.  Put  swing  pockets  in  fronts :     Place  left  front  outside  011  ma- 

chine right  side  up.  Lay  drill  for  pocket  flat  underneath 
with  inside  of  pocket  face  down,  locating  by  notches  on  top 
and  side.  Fold  under  from  notch  to  notch  to  form  oblique 
facing  for  pocket,  and  stitch  down  V4"  (a  "foot")  away 
from  edge.  Roll  the  entire  front  over  onto  inside  of  machine 
wrong  side  up.  Fold  drill  over  to  form  the  pocket,  match- 
ing notches  at  lower  side  seam  (pocket  now  inside  out) 
Stitch  bottom  of  pocket  from  notches  over  to  folded  edgt 
and  tack  at  end  of  run.  Roll  the  front  over  pocket  back 
into  outside  position  again.  Pull  drill  pocket  through  itself 
to  bring  right  side  in,  and  at  the  same  time  bring  triangular 
denim  facing  into  position  just  beneath  and  squaring  out 
the  shape  of  front  at  oblique  edge  of  front  pocket-facing. 
Stitch  across  top  edge  of  front  and  triangular  facing.  Lay 
button-stay  wrong  side  up  on  the  front  at  side  opening  and 
sew  from  top  to  bottom  at  edge.  Fold  stay-piece  underneath 
front,  stitching  up  to  top  near  the  edge  and  return  a  "foot" 
away  for  a  double  seam,  tacking  at  bottom  angle  of  swing 
pocket  in  process  of  last  downward  seam.  Repeat  with  right 
front  swing  pocket. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Material — seat-pieces,  backs,  swing  pocket  drill,  triangular 
pocket  facings,  buttonhole  fly,  button-stay,  white  cotton 
thread. 

Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — folding  under,  folding  over,  hemming,  edging  out, 

stitching,  matching  notches,  pulling  inside  out,  tacking. 
Location — wrong  and  right  side  up,  outside  and  inside  on  ma- 
machine,  on  top  and  beneath,  right  and  left,  side  openings, 
a  "foot"  away,  bottom  angle  of  swing  pocket,  notches  at  cer- 
tain points. 


33 

Stock : 

Recognition — denim,  drill,  parts  by  shape.     No.  30  upper,  No.  36 
lower  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety :     Nothing  special. 
Care  of  tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics:     Measuring  %",  Vi"  and  1/16"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SSAMER 

The  seamer  operates  a  two-needle  flat  bed  machine  with  folding 
attachment,  to  join  together  certain  parts  of  the  overall  before  it 
goes  to  the  second  stage  of  one-needle  work. 

1.  Join  right  and  left  backs  :     Place  backs  in  folder  right  side  up. 

stitching  from  top  to  crotch. 

2.  Join  outside  of  legs :     Put  bottom  ends  of  left  front  and  back 

outside  and  inside  respectively  on  machine,  right  side  up. 
Insert  in  folder  and  sew  from  bottom  to  notch  at  side  fac- 
ing. (Side  seams  must  always  face  back,  that  is,  fronts, 
always  over  backs).  Similarly  put  top  ends  at  right  front 
and  back  in  folder,  sewing  from  notch  at  bottom  of  side  facing 
to  bottom  of  leg. 

3.  Seam  bib :     Put  right  and  left  halves  right  side  up  in  folder, 

stitching  from  top  to  bottom. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — backs,  fronts,  bib-pieces,  white  and  colored  thread. 
Tools — two-needle  machine,  folder,  scissors. 
Operation — seaming. 

Location — right   side  up,  fronts  over   backs,   rights  and  lefts, 
crotch,  bottom,  side  facing  notches,  setting  folder  fair,  and 
forward   or   back   to   suit   goods.     White   thread   always   in 
needle,  any  color  for  lower  or  loop  thread. 
Stock : 

Recognition — parts  by  shapes,  No.  30  upper  and  No.  36  lower 

thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety:     Nothing  special. 
Care  of  tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics  :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SECOND  PART  GIRL 

The  second  part  girl  continues  with  a  single-needle  machine  the 
joining  work  which  was  interrupted  by  the  seaming  process. 

1.    Hem  bib :     But  bib  inside  on  machine  wrong  side  up.     Fold 

over  and  turn  in  a  %"  hem,  stitching  up  right  side  of  bib, 

across  top  and  down  left  side. 


34 

2.  Hem  top  and  watch  sides  of  bib-pocket :     Lay  pocket  outside  on 

machine  wrong  side  up.  Fold  top  and  watch  side  over  and 
stitch  along  edge  returning  a  "foot"  away. 

3.  Sew  pocket  on  bib :     Put  bib  in  machine  right  side  up,  and 

.place  pocket  in  position  on  left  half.  Turn  in  edge  opposite 
watch  side,  tacking  at  top  then  sewing  down  and  around 
bottom  to  bottom  of  watch  opening,  and  finishing  with  a 
tack.  Return  a  "foot"  away  for  double  seam  to  lower 
back  corner.  Stitch  obliquely  up  the  back  edge  to  a  1" 
opening  between  steams,  forming  a  pencil  pocket.  Tack  top 
of  pencil-pocket  seam  and  also  at  top  of  watch  opening. 

4.  Tack  top  of  side  steams :     Put  garment  in  machine  right  side 

up,  making  a  cross  tacking  at  bottom  of  each  side  opening. 
3.  Join  fronts  at  bottom  of  fly:  Lay  parts  right  side  up  with 
right  inside  and  left  outside  on  machine.  Lay  buttonhole 
side  over  button  side  in-position  and  turn  in  edge  below  fly 
to  icrotch.  Sew  up  edge  of  turned  in  part  %"  onto  fly. 
Make  a  1"  cross  tacking.  Break  thread  and  return  to  crotch 
on  wrong  side,  width  of  foot  from  edge. 

6.  Join  bib  to  front :     Put  garment  in  machine  right  side  up,  lay- 

ing buttonhole  side  of  fly  over  button  side  in  position.  Stitch 
across  top  of  fly.  Lay  bib  on  top  of  garment  wrong  side  up 
with  joining  edges  even.  Put  bib  facing  under  garment 
wrong  side  up,  that  is,  with  the  three  layers  lying  edges 
even  and  like  sides  of  cloth  together.  Join  three  layers  to- 
gether across  top  edge  from  right  to  left,  Turn  bib  over 
into  position  and  sew  back  a  "foot"  away  from  left  to  right 
side.  Turn  garment  over  with  wrong  side  up.  Fold  over 
bib-facing  into  position  and  trim  ends.  Turn  in  edges  of 
bib-facing  at  ends  and  along  top,  sewing  with  a  single  seam 
around  edge. 

7.  Join  backhand  to  overalls :     Lay  two  halves  of  backhand  in 

machine  right  sides  together  and  sew  once  across.  Open 
out  full  length  and  flatten  seam  edges.  Put  back  of  garment 
in  machine  wrong  side  up  and  lay  back  band  over  it  wrong 
side  up  with  top  edges  even.  Stitch  once  across.  Fold  back- 
band  over  into  position.  Turn  garment  right  side  up  in  ma- 
chine and  fold  backhand  over  to  cover  last  seam.  Turn  in 
ends  and  lower  edge  and  sew  all  around  four  edges  of  back- 
band.  When  within  about  6"  of  right  end  of  backhand  in- 
sert label  under  foot  and  sew  once  around  it  before  com- 
pleting seam. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — bib,  bib-pocket,  bib-facing,  partly  assembled  overall 

or  garment,  backhand,  label,  white  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 


35 

Operations — hemming,  folding  over,  turning  in,  tacking,  sew- 
ing, trimming,  joining. 

Location — right  and  wrong  side  up,  like  sides  together,  outside 
and  inside  on  machine,  a  "foot"  away,  watch  side,  buttonhole 
side,  button  side,  top  and  bottom  of  fly,  over  and  underneath, 
crotch,  backhand,  right  and  left. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  by  shapes,  No.  30  upper  and  No.  36  bob- 
bin thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 
Mathematics :     Measuring  %",  %"  and  1"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FELLER 

The  felling  girl  operates  a  special  two-needle  machine  made  with 
its  sewing  head  extending  forward  towards  the  operator,  and  clear 
of  the  table  tdge  about  twelve  inches,  thus  making  clearance  for 
pushing  closed-in  parts  like  legs  or  sleeves  back  past  the  needle 
where  they  may  gather  around  the  arm-like  bed.     There  is  a  folder 
attachment  which  turns  in  the  goods  one  side  over  the  other.     The 
job  is  confined  to  closing  in  legs,  sleeves  and  bodies  of  garments. 
1.    Put  inside  edges  of  bottom  of  right  leg  in  folder  right  side  out 
(always  fronts  over  backs),  and  stitch  through  to  crotch  and 
continue  down  left  leg  to  bottom. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — garment,  white  and  black  or  khaki  thread. 

Tools — felling  machine,  folder,  scissors. 

Operations — felling. 

Location — right  and  left,  bottom,  crotch,  right  side  out.     White 

thread  in  needle,  any  color  for  lower  or  loop  thread. 
Stock : 

Recognition — garment,  No.  30  upper,  No.  36  lower  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics:     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— HEMMER 

The  hemming  girl  operates  a  one-needle  special  machine  which 
has  a  head  pointing  forward  in  advance  of  the  table  allowing  the 
overall  leg  to  be  pushed  easily  into  place  under  the  needle.     A  spe- 
cial folder  attachment  turns  in  the  bottom  once  then  once  again. 
1.    Hem   bottoms   of  overall:     Place   bottom    of  leg   of   garment 
around  bed.     Put  upper  side  into  the  folder  and  sew  once 
around.     Repeat  with  other  leg. 


36 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — overall,  white  thread. 

Tools — one-needle  special  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — hemming. 

Location — bottom  of  overall  leg. 
Stock : 

No.  30  upper  and  No.  36  bobbin  thread. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

The  examiner  inspects  all  previous  workmanship  on  the  overalls. 

1.  Measure  inseam  to  check  length  of  leg  with  label. 

2.  Examine  for  straight  seams,  tackings,  run-oft's,  raw  edges,  skip- 

stitches  on  side  facings,  outside  and  inside  seams  and  bottom 
finish.  Check  even  length  of  back  and  front  of  side  open- 
ings. 

3.  Examine  outside  as  in  2  on  joining  seams,  fly,  swing  pockets, 

bib  and  bib-pocket. 

4.  Examine  inside  as  in  2  on  fly,  joining  seam,  seat  pieces,  bib- 

facing,  back  seams  and  backhand. 

5.  Examine  outside  as  in  2  on  hip  and  rule-pockets,  seat-pieces, 

back  seam,  backhand  and  label. 

6.  Measure  waist  size  to  check  with  label. 

7.  Snip  all  ravels  and  odd  thread  ends  while  in  process  of  examin- 

ing 2-5  above. 

8.  Chalk  mark  all  repair  work  to  be  repaired  and  send  to  oper- 

ators to  repair. 

9.  Examine  for  tears  or  cuts,  thin  spots  or  other  defects  in  goods. 

Stamp  label  on  defective  garments  as  ''seconds." 
10.    Re-examine  all  returned  repair  work. 
Auxiliary  Information. 
Trade 'Terms: 

Materials — overalls,  all  parts  by  name. 

Tools — yard-scale  on  edge  of  examining  table,  scissors,  tailor's 

chalk,  rubber  stamp  and  pad. 

Operations — Examining,  inspecting,  checking,  chalking,  stamp- 
ing, placing  in  repair  box. 
Location — All  parts  by  name. 
Special — Run-off s,  skip  stitches,  raw  edges,  thin  spots,  straight 

seams,  lie  even. 
Stock : 

Recognition — Parts  differing  in  color  by  varying  shades  of  blue 

or  khaki,  weight  of  goods  by  its  thickness. 
Working  properties — None. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 


37 

Drawing;  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics :     Measuring  on  yard  stick  in  inches. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The  buttonhole  girl  has  three  separate  jobs  to  perform  on  the 
overalls.  She  prepares  the  button-side  of  fly  for  the  first  part  girl. 
She  also  puts  buttonholes  in  the  tabs  of  the  suspender  straps  after 
they  are  made  but  before  they  go  to  the  bucklers.  Lastly  she  puts 
all  needed  buttonholes  in  the  overall  itself.  The  buttonhole  machine 
is  a  special,  which  sews  all  .around  where  the  hole  is  to  be  then  cuts 
the  cloth.  Some  machines  have  a  cording  attachment  which  re- 
inforces the  edge  of  the  hole  with  a  heavy  black  cord  bound  inside 
of  the  stitching.  Holes  are  reinforced  at  side  openings,  on  strap- 
tabs,  and  for  watch  chain  in  bib,  but  the  fly  buttonholes  are  not 
reinforced  (done  on  a  smaller  machine).  All  machines  make  what 
is  called  a  pearl  stitch,  using  number  30  thread. 

1.  Make  buttonholes  in  fly:     Fold  goods  over  lengthwise  right 

side  out,  with  upper  edge  lying  1/4"  inside  the  lower.  Turn 
fly  over  and  mark  the  first  of  the  lot  with  a  gauge  according 
to  its  size  for  number  and  position  of  holes.  (Others  of  that 
size  need  not  be  marked.)  Place  in  machine  folded  edge 
first,  marked  side  up  and  make  the  three  or  four  holes  in 
series. 

2.  Make  strap-tab  buttonholes :     Place  tab  end  of  suspender  end- 

wise into  machine  and  make  hole  in  center  of  the  goods. 

3.  Make  buttonholes  on  overall :     Set  garment  in  machine  right 

side  up  at  desired  position,  making  holes  in  the  following 
order — two  at  right  side  opening,  one  in  bib  for  watch  chain, 
two  at  left  side  opening. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — overalls,  straps,   buttonhole  flys,   reinforcing  cord, 

No.  30  thread  in  needle  and  bobbin. 

Tools — special  buttonhole  machines,  scissors,  marking  gauges. 
Operations — folding  over,  marking,  stitching  holes. 
Location — side  openings,  bib  top,  strap  tabs. 
Stock : 

Recognition — lot  numbers  by  sixes. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing :     Marking  at  notches  in  gauge. 
Science :    None. 

Mathematics:    Spacing  holes  by  eye,  correct  to  *4"  on  fly  and 
side  openings,  and  to  V6"  on  ends  of  backhand. 


121625 


38 

PAYROLL   JOB— MARKER 

The  marker  locates  positions  for  buttons  in  advance  of  the  patent 
button  tacker. 

1.  Mark  fly:     Lay  overall  on  table  front  side  down,  and  turn 

backhand  down  to  expose  inside  of  fly.  Turn  edge  of  button 
side  back  over  far  enough  to  show  part  of  buttonholes.  Chalk 
button  side  opposite  each  hole. 

2.  Mark  side  openings :     Replace  backhand  and  straighten  gar- 

ment out  flat,    Mark  for  button  at  middle  of  side  openings. 
Band  buttons  need  none. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 
Materials — overalls. 
Tools — tailor's  chalk. 

Operations — laying  out  flat,  folding  back,  marking. 
Location — button  and   buttonhole  sides  of  fly,  side   openings, 

backhand. 

Stock :     Nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing :     Marking  positions  with  chalk. 
Science  and  Mathematics:     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTON  TACKER 

The  button  girl  operates  a  patent  tack  button  machine  which 
pushes  the  metal  tack  part  of  the  button  up  through  the  cloth  and 
clinches  it  inside  the  button  proper.  It  carries  magazines  and  dies 
for  two  sizes,  smaller  ones  for  the  fly  and  a  larger  size  for  sides 
and  suspenders.  The  magazines,  called  cups  or  turrets,  are  in 
pairs,  one  feeding  tacks  and  the  other  buttons  down  through  the 
ways  to  the  dies. 

1 .  Put  on  fly  buttons :     Place  front  of  button  side  up  in  machine 

on  small  size  die.  Set  according  to  mark  and  press  treadle, 
repeating  at  required  number  of  marks. 

2.  Put  on  side  and  suspender  buttons :     Put  overall  under  large 

size  die  right  side  up,  attaching  buttons  in  the  following  or- 
der:    two  at  opposite  corners  of  bib,  two  at  left  side  open- 
ing, two  on  backhand  for  suspenders,  two  at  right  side  open- 
ing (all  but  lower  side  buttons. put  on  without  marks). 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — overalls,  buttons  and  tacks. 
Tools — special  patent  button  tacker. 
Operations — tacking. 
Location — as  in  2  above. 
Stock : 

Recognition — buttons  and  tacks,  each  in  separate  cartons,  sizes 
indicated  by  "lines,"  as  22-line  or  27-line  buttons. 


Working  properties — buttons  jam  in  dies  and  miss  hitting  fair. 
Safety :     Use  a  wire  to  fish  out  jammed  buttons.     Pull  off  defec- 
tive buttons  with  pliers  and  notched  steel  plate. 
Care  of  Tools :     Change  dies  for  different  kinds  of  buttons. 

Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics:     Spacing  buttons  by  eye  correct  to  1/4"  for  sus- 
penders, 1/16"  for  ends  of  bib-belt,  and  exactly  on  side  marks. 

PAYROLL  JOB— STRAPMAKER 

The  strapmaker  works  up  the  suspenders  completely  with  excep- 
tion of  buttonholes  and  wire  slides  and  loops.  She  operates  a  one- 
needle  machine. 

1 .  Join  web  and  tab :     Cut  elastic  web  into  lengths.     Lay  tab- 

piece  inside  on  machine,  wrong  side  up  and  fold  over  %"  of 
outside  edge.  Lay  end  of  web  on  this  fold  %"  from  far 
corner  and  tack  the  two  together.  Fold  over  nearest  edge 
to  far  edge,  swing  tab  into  outside  position  on  machine  and 
sew  across  to  %"  from  edge.  Turn  in  edges  of  both  upper 
and  lower  layers  of  tab  then  complete  stitching.  Turn  in 
side  edges  to  end  of  tab  and  sew  till  %"  from  bottom  end  of 
tab.  Turn  in  both  layers  of  bottom  end  and  complete  stitch- 
ing around  and  up  folded  edge  to  web. 

2.  Make  straps  and  join  to  web :     Place  strap  on  machine  wrong 

side  up.  Fold  over  lengthwise  as  far  as  side  cut  for  strap 
part.  Turning  in  edges  of  both  upper  and  lower  layers  along 
side  and  at  end,  sew  all  around  the  double  portion  of  strap. 
Fold  over  opposite  end  of  remaining  part  %",  lay  free  end 
of  web  over  it  and  tack  the  two  together.  Repeat  with  an- 
other strap,  forming  right  and  left  of  a  pair. 

3.  Join  straps  together :     Lay  a  pair  one  over  the  other  right  sides 

together,  and  stitch  the  joining  parts  together  in  line  with 
folded  edge  of  strap  and  tab.     Pull  out  flat  and  lay  wrong 
side  up.     Lay  facing  piece  right  side  up  over  the  joining 
seam.     Turn  in  all  four  edges  of  facing  and  sew  all  around  to 
cover  seams  and  complete  the  joining. 
'Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — elastic  webs,  top  pieces,  strap-pieces,  facing-piece, 

No.  30  and  36  white  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  flat-top  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — separating,  tacking,  folding  over,  turning  in,  stitch- 
ing. 
Location — right  and  left,  joining  part,  right  and  wrong  sides 

up,  No.  36  thread  in  bobbin. 
Stock: 
Recognition — elastic  web  in  lengths  of  a  dozen  pieces  trade 


40 

marked  and  spotted  for  separating  with  scissors.     Cloth  p.irls 
by  name  and  shape. 
Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics :     Measuring  %"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUCKLER 

The  buckle  girl  adds  the  wire  loops  and  slides  to  suspender  straps 
after  they  have  come  from  the  buttonholer.  The  loop  is  the  part 
which  hooks  over  the  bib-button,  and  the  slide  is  for  adjusting  length 
of  strap. 

1.    Put  on  slides  and  loops :     Draw  10"  or  12"  of  strap  end  through 
slide  over  middle  bar  and  about  (>"  back  through  slide  again. 
Put  loop  over  free  end  of  strap.     Put  this  end  up  inside  over 
middle  bar  of  slide  and  back  inside  below  it  with  Vk"  free 
end.     Draw  outer  part  of  strap  down  through  slide  to  hold 
free  end  in  place. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — straps,  slides,  loops. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — drawing  through,  sliding  on. 

Location — over  and  under  middle  bar  of  slide,  inside  and  out- 
side strap. 
Stock : 

Recognition — strap  end  of  suspender,  loops  and  slides  in  cartons. 
Working  properties — straps  stiff  to  pull  through. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics:     Measuring  10"  or  12",  6"  and  ^fa"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SORTER 

The  sorter  may  have  two  duties,  the  main  one  of  sorting  coming 
first  in  preparation  for  the  folders,  and  the  second,  tying  up  bundles, 
following  after  the  folders  are  through.  If  work  is  coming  through 
in  large  volume  this  job  may  be  divided  on  that  basis  so  that  the 
sorter  would  be  confined  to  the  one  operation  only.  It  follows  after 
the  button  tacker  is  through. 

1.  Sorting   overalls  by   sizes :     Bring  lots  from   bins  to  sorting 

table.  Sort  by  waist-size  and  leg-length  numbers  on  label. 
Pile  in  stacks  by  sizes  for  folders. 

2.  Tie  in  dozens  after  folders:     Hang  a  bunch  tie  strings  about 

neck.  Place  string  around  dozen  near  one  end,  slipping  end 
through  the  wire  loop  and  drawing  tight.  Pull  end  into 
grip  of  the  wire  loop  and  put  a  half  loop  on  to  hold.  Pack 
tied  dozens  in  elevator  truck, 


41 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — overalls. 

Tools — tying  strings. 

Operations — sorting,  stacking,  tying,  packing. 

Location — sorting,  stacking  and  folding  tables. 
Stock  : 

Recognition — label  numbers  indicating  first  waist  size  and  sec- 
ond length  of  leg  in  inches,  as  40-31,  40-32,  38-32,  36-33,  etc. 

Working  properties — nothing. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools  :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FOLDER 

The  folder,  as  the  name  indicates,  arranges  the  overall  into  neat 
and  compact  shape  for  packing,  so  folding  it  that  the  label  sewn  to 
the  right  end  of  backband  is  easily  seen  by  those  handling  the  gar- 
ment afterwards. 

1.    Folding :     Lay  overalls  flat  on  table  front  up.     Button  strap 
tabs  to  bib,  and  fold  both  under  at  belt  line  inside  the  gar- 
ment,    Fold  right  side  to  left  side  bringing  label  on  top. 
Reverse  with  label  below  and  fold  bottoms  to  belt.     Stack  in 
dozens  of  uniform  size,  half  of  stack  being  placed  end  for  end 
to  balance  its  shape. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — overalls,  suspender  straps. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — buttoning,  folding,  counting,  checking  sizes. 
Location — inside,  front  down,  front  up,  end  for  end. 
Stock :     Nothing  additional. 

Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics :     Counting  in  half  and  full  dozens. 

Sleeping  Wear  Department 

The  sleeping  garments  for  adults  are  made  exclusively  in  this 
department,  which  is  the  most  extensive  from  standpoint  of  quantity 
and  variety  of  product.  Four  main  types  of  garment  are  made, 
nightgowns  and  shirts,  pa  jama  suits,  pajunions,  and  pajunettes. 
Some  special  garments  are  made  such  as  heavy  woolen,  hooded,  out- 
door sleeping  gowns,  but  these  form  a  negligible  item.  In  addition 
to  the  different  sizes  in  the  four  main  lines,  there  are  very  many 
varieties  and  designs  of  finish,  so  that  operators  are  provided  with  a 
great  many  changes.  During  the  winter  season  the  factory  works 
on  summer  varieties  of  sleeping  garments,  and  the  summer  is  spent 


42 


in  working  up  next  winter's  supply  of  flannel  garments.  In  all  there 
are  some  125  varieties  of  sleeping  garments  to  make,  ranging  from 
the  extremely  plain  to  the  most  ornate. 

Ladies'  nightgowns,  men's  nightshirts,  and  pajamas  are  familiar 
enough  to  need  no  defining.  The  pajunions  and  pajunettes  are  fancy 
styles  of  ladies'  sleeping  wear  made  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of 
the  men's  pajamas.  The  pajunion  is  a  union  of  the  pajama  jacket 
and  pants  into  one  garment,  the  joining  being  made  at  the  waist, 
and  the  jacket  extending  down  around  the  body  for  8"  or  10"  out- 
side. The  pajunions  are  simply  hemmed  at  the  bottoms.  Pajunettes 
are  the  still  more  ornate  styles,  made  in  one  piece,  without  the 
jacket  effect,  and  having  elastic  inserted  at  the  bottoms,  or  being 
completely  footed.  Various  special  machines  are  in  use  for  briar- 
stitching,  hemstitching,  wave-stitching,  and  the  use  of  braid  and 
ribbons  for  trimming  extends  the  scope  of  the  department  to  an 
unlimited  degree. 

Winter  garments  are  made  almost  exclusively  of  flannelette  in 
white,  pinks  and  blues,  either  plain  or  with  woven  stripes  of,  differ- 
ing shades  and  colors.  Summer  garments  are  made  from  prints, 
cambrics,  silks,  satins,  soisette  and  other  trade  names  for  products 
of  cotton  and  silk. 

The  cut  goods  come  from  the  cutting  room  in  bundles  of  twenty- 
four.  All  accessory  materials  like  braid,  ribbon,  loops,  buttons,  etc., 
are  brought  in  boxes  or  crates  from  the  stores  department  where 
they  were  assembled  according  to  the  descriptive  sheet  ready  for 


No.   |            Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1     Girdle  maker 

Pants  —  Make  girdles. 

Jacket—  0. 

2     '     Seamer 

Pants  —  make  outseams,    sew   on  seat-pieces,   join   backs. 

Jacket—  0. 

3          First  part  girl 

Pants  —  Hem  or  tassel  ends  of  girdle,  make  fly,  hem  top,  join 

fronts. 

Jacket  —  Make    yoke    and    neck-facings,    sew    on    pocket,    join 

shoulders,  sew  on  yoke,  hem  fronts. 

4     '     Sleeve  piecer 

Pants—  0. 

Jacket-  -Join  sleeve-pieces. 

5     i     Sleeve  maker 

Pants  —  0. 

Jacket—  Sew  on  cuffs,   tack  at   wrist. 

6 

Examiner 

Pants  —  Inspect  previous  workmanship. 

Jacket  —  Inspect  previous  workmanship. 

7 

Bundle  boy 

Pants—  0. 

Jacket—  Match  sleeve  and  body  bundles. 

8 

Sleever 

Pants  —  0. 

Jacket  —  -Join  sleeves  to  body. 

9          Feller 

Pants  —  Fell  inseams. 

Jacket  —  Fell  sleeves  and  sides. 

10 

Marker 

Pants—  Mark  for  fly  buttons. 

Jacket  —  Mark  for  buttonholes,  mark  for  buttons. 

11     1     Loop  'girl 

Pants—  0. 

Jacket  —  Sew  loops  or  frogs  on  front. 

12 

Hemmer 

Pants  —  Hem  bottoms. 

Jacket  —  Hem  bottom. 

13 

Examiner 

Pants-  -0. 

14 

'    . 
Buttonholer 

Jacket  —  Inspect  sleeving,  felling,  hemming,  and  loops. 
Pants  —  Make  buttonholes  in  fly. 

1 

Jacket  —  Make  buttonholes  through  loops. 

15 

Button   sewer 

Pants  —  Sew  on  fly  buttons. 

I 

Jacket—  Sew  on  front  buttons. 

43 

use  when  called  for.  Many  of  these  accessories  are  in  lot-lengths 
and  require  to  be  cut  into  individual  pieces  by  the  operator  when 
needed. 

For  purposes  of  getting  instructional  material  in  the  operation  of 
this  department  it  will  be  sufficient  to  make  a  study  of  two  typical 
standard  garments — the  pajama  suit,  and  night  gown.  The  night 
gown  has  one-piece  fronts  and  backs  with  yoke  construction,  while 
the  pajama  suit  has  open  coat  and  pants  construction. 

An  airplane  view  of  the  making  of  a  typical  pajama  suit  will  show 
the  organization  outlined  on  page  42. 

DETAILED  JOB  ANALYSIS 

The  fact  that  there  are  two  parts  to  the  suit  makes  it  possible  to 
organize  production  on  the  parts  individually  or  with  the  suit  as  a 
unit.  Of  two  first  part  girls,  one  may  work  exclusively  on  pants  and 
the  other  on  jackets,  or  each  may  work  on  both  parts.  The  organi- 
zation scheduled  above  may  be  used  either  way.  In  the  analysis 
which  follows,  the  form  adopted  will  be  simply  an  expansion  of  the 
outline  just  presented.  The  form  may  appear  to  read  as  if  but  one 
suit  is  being  made.  In  all  cases  it  is  necessary  to  interpret  quan- 
tity production  on  the  basis  of  units  or  bundles  of  twenty-four.  In 
some  cases  one  single  operation  will  be  done  on  each  of  twenty-four 
pieces  of  the  garment.  Sometimes  the  operator  will  do  two  oper- 
ations on  the  piece  while  it  is  in  the  machine  before  taking  the  next 
similar  piece.  In  this  way  she  may  have  studied  and  experimented 
until  she  has  found  for  herself  that  pieces  may  have  one,  two,  three 
or  four  operations  performed  while  going  through  once,  according 
to  conditions,  parts,  and  her  own  skill.  This  study  results  in  higher 
speed,  and  consequently  higher  wages  on  the  piece-rate  basis. 
Sleeves  and  other  duplicate  parts  usually  go  through  in  pairs,  that  is, 
one  operation  done  on  a  right  will  be  done  perhaps  in  a  reverse  order 
on  the  left  before  the  next  right  is  put  under  the  machine. 

It  should  be  noted  particularly  that  auxiliary  information  which  is 
common  to  all  payroll  jobs  and  work  jobs  has  not  been  repeated  each 
time  a  job  is  analyzed.  The  words  "nothing  additional,"  "nothing 
special,"  or  "none"  do  not  mean  that  if  a  girl  is  being  taught  some 
particular  payroll  job  where  such  words  are  used  descriptively,  she 
has  nothing  on  these  points  to  be  taught.  It  does  mean  that  for 
sake  of  saving  endless  repetition  of  this  data,  it  has  been  stated 
elsewhere  in  this  study  as  common  or  general  auxiliary  knowledge, 
which  must  be  taught  to  this  girl  now,  and  that  on  these  items  there 
is  no  special  information  peculiar  to  this  job  which  requires  teach- 
ing in  addition  to  the  general  facts.  This  general  information 
includes  instruction  on  properties  of  materials  used,  on  operating 
principles  of  machines,  on  their  care,  and  on  factory  procedure  and 
organization. 


-14 

PAYROLL  JOB— GIRDLE  MAKER 

The  girdle  maker  operates  a  special  two-needle  machine  and  folder. 
It  is  used  also  for  making  what  is  called  continuous  facing,  but  the 
work  is  identical  except  for  length  of  the  pieces  put  through.  The 
needles  are  spaced  about  five-eighth  inches  apart,  and  the  folder 
doubles  the  cloth  strip  over,  turns  in  both  raw  edges  forming  a  strap 
about  %"  wide  which  is  then  sewed  along  the  edges.  The  girdles 
arc  sewn  in  half-lengths  and  are  joined  by  the  first  part  girl  later. 

A.  Pants: 

1.    Make  girdles:     Feed  strips  of  cloth  into  the  folder.     Count  out 

bundles  of  48  half-lengths. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — girdle  stock,  thread. 

Tools — special  two-needle  flat-bed  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — feeding  the  folder,  counting  out  bundles. 

Location — setting  folder  fair,  keeping  edges  of  stock  running 

out  against  the  edge  of  folder. 
Stock : 

Recognition — girdle  pieces  by  shape,  No.  80  white  thread. 

Working  properties — Nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 
Mathematics:     Counting  in  forty-eights. 

B.  Jacket :     Nothing. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SEAMER 

The  seamer  operates  a  two-needle  flat-bed  machine  with  folder. 
The  operations  have  to  do  with  preparing  the  pants  for  the  first  part 
girl.  With  extra  large  sizes  of  pajama  pants  it  becomes  necessary  to 
cut  and  make  with  an  outseam,  but  otherwise  there  is  none.  This  job 
is  done  first  if  needed,  and  the  leg  piece  treated  thereafter  as  if  there 
were  no  seam  in  it. 
A.  Pants : 

1.  Make  outseams  if  required :     Lay  front  part  of  right  leg  inside 

and  back  part  outside  on  machine  right  side  up.  Place  in 
folder  and  sew  from,  top  to  bottom  of  seam.  Lay  parts  of 
left  leg  in  same  relation,  but  sew  from  bottom  to  top. 

2.  Sew  on  seat-pieces :     Put  right  leg  outside  on  machine,  right 

side  up,  and  insert  in  lower  part  of  folder.  Place  correspond- 
ing seat-piece  in  upper  part  of  folder,  sewing  from  bottom 
upwards.  Put  left  leg  inside  on  machine  right  side  up,  and 
insert  in  upper  part  of  folder.  Place  corresponding  seat- 
piece  in  lower  part  of  folder  and  sew  from  bottom  upwards. 

3.  Seam  right  and  left  legs  together  at  back :     Put  right  and  left 

legs  in  lower  and  upper  parts  of  folder  as  they  lie  at  finish 
of  operation  2  above.  Stitch  from  crotch  to  top  of  goods. 


B.     Jacket :     Nothing. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — leg-pieces,  seat-pieces,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  flat  top  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — seaming,  joining. 

Location — top  and  bottom  of  outseams,  seat-piece  seams,  joining 

seam,  crotch. 
Stock : 

Recognition — parts  by  name  and  shape,  No.  80  white  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  ('are  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FIRST  PART  GIRL 

The  first  part  girl  does  a  number  of  single  needle  operations.  On 
the  pants  she  practically  finishes  the  garment,  since  it  only  remains 
to  have  the  bottoms  hemmed  and  the  buttons  sewrn  on  the  fly  after 
it  leaves  this  machine.  On  the  jacket  she  does  all  the  single  needle 
work.  In  a  sense  therefore  the  name  of  the  payroll  job  is  a  mis- 
nomer, since  there  is  no  second  part  or  stage  of  single  needle  work 
to  be  done  as  there  is  in  making  the  gown.  The  name  sticks  how- 
ever, because  it  is  single  needle  construction  which  constitutes  the 
main  part  of  making  all  garments. 
A.  Pants : 

1.  Hem,  or  hem  and  tassel,  ends  of  girdle :     If  simply  hemmed, 

fold  over  y2"  and  once  again,  sewing  across  and  tacking.  If 
a  tassel  is  added,  lay  base  of  tassel  on  hem  before  sewing  a 
box  tack. 

2.  Make  fly :     Put  left  front  of  garment  outside  on  machine  right 

side  up.  Lay  buttonhole  fly  (see  buttonholer)  over  with  its 
raw  edge  even  with  raw  edge  of  front,  and  top  end  1/2"  above 
the  lower  of  two  notches  on  front  edge,  near  the  top  corner. 
Sew  %"  from  raw  edges,  starting  at  bottom  and  ending  at 
top  of  buttonhole  piece.  Lay  left  front  inside  on  machine 
wrong  side  up.  Fold  fly  over  so  as  to  bring  its  folded  edge 
just  even  with  folded  edge  of  goods  to  which  it  is  sewn.  Turn 
in  back  edge  of  fly  and  sew  from  bottom  end  clear  through 
to  top  of  garment.  Put  button  side  outside  on  machine 
wrong  side  up.  Lay  button-stay  underneath  wrong  side  up 
with  edges  even  and  top  end  at  upper  of  two  notches  on 
front  edge  of  button-side.  Sew  along  edges  from  bottom  of 
stay  to  lower  of  two  notches  on  front  edge  of  button  side, 
then  sew  from  this  notch  across  button-stay  until  y2"  from 
its  inner  edge.  Tack  end  of  this  run.  Cut  with  scissors 
through  two  layers  of  goods  across  the  button-stay  just  above 
the  last  seam  and  as  far  as  the  tacking.  Trim  out  the  por- 


46 

tion  of  button-stay  only  above  the  cut  just  made.  Turn  button 
stay  inside  out  until  seam  comes  to  edge,  pushing  angle  of  seam 
out  square  with  tip  of  finger.  Lay  button  side  at  inside  posi- 
tion wrong  side  up,  and  sew  up  along  outer  edge  of  button- 
stay  as  far  as  top  corner,  then  in  across  the  end  as  far  as  it 
was  cut  away.  Fold  over  part  of  right  front  which  lies  at 
top  end  of  the  stay  as  far  as  it  was  cut  with  scissors,  and 
continue  the  seam  up  this  folded  edge  to  top  of  garment. 
Return  a  seam  down  a  "foot"  away  from  this  edge  to  top 
of  button  stay.  Turn  in  back  edge  of  button-stay  and  con- 
tinue this  seam  down  to  bottom  of  stay. 

3.  Put  in  girdle :     Lay  garment  in  machine  wrong  side  up  and 

stitch  down  at  joining  seam  (middle  of  back)  about  1". 
Overlap  ends  of  two  half-lengths  of  girdle  under  the  needle 
at  this  point  and  tack  them  to  garment.  Fold  top  edge  of 
garment  over  the  girdle,  forming  a  wide  hem  lying  exactly 
between  the  two  notches  011  front  edge  of  buttonhole  side. 
Turn  in  lower  edge  and  tack  corner  of  hem.  Sew  clear 
through  lower  edge  of  top  hem  until  1"  from  end  of  right 
or  button  side.  Stich  label  under  lower  edge  of  hem  at  this 
point  and  continue  seam  to  edge  of  garment  with  a  tack. 
(Care  is  needed  to  see  that  girdle  is  not  sewn  in  with  the  hem 
at  any  point.) 

4.  Join  fronts  below  fly:     Check  position  from  top  hem  of  gar- 

ment, laying  outsides  of  fronts  together  and  fly  edges  even. 
Sew  from  lower  end  of  fly  to  crotch  %"  from  raw  edges. 
Pull  garment  out  flat  on  machine,  right  side  up,  and  sew 
over  this  last  seam  from  crotch  back  to  fly.     Tack  bottom 
of  fly   crosswise.     Sew   back   from  fly  to  crotch   a   "foot" 
away  to  catch  raw  edges  of  hem  beneath. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment  (leg-pieces  joined  at  back),  fly,  button-stay. 

half-length  girdles,  tassels,  label,  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  flat  bed  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — hemming,  folding  over,  turning  in,  turning  inside 

out,  tacking,  trimming,  checking,  joining. 

Location — left  and  right  fronts,  outside  and  inside  on  machine, - 
right  and  wrong  side  up,  top  and  bottom  of  fly,  folded  and 
raw  edges  of  fly,  lower  of  two  front  notches,  outer  and  inner 
angles  at  top  of  button  stay,  top  edge  at  joining  seam,  bottom 
of  fly,  crotch,  a  "foot"  away. 
Stock: 

Recognition — all  parts  by  name  and  shape,  No.  80  white  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 

Safety:    Needle  guard  on  the  foot  prevents  fingers  from  getting 
under  the  point. 


47 

Care  of  Tools — Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     Nothing  special. 

Mathematics :     Measuring  l/2",  1",  %"  by  eye  correct  to  %". 
B.     Jacket : 

1.  Sew  labels  and  size  tab  on  yoke :     Cut  apart  with  scissors  and 

fold  or  crease  under  ends  of  labels.  Place  yoke  in  machine 
right  side  up,  and  put  label  in  position  1"  from  middle  of 
top  edge.  Sew  all  around  label,  inserting  size  tab  under  one 
end. 

2.  Sew  front  or  neck  facings  on  yoke :     Place  yoke  outside  on 

machine  right  side  up.  Lay  left  shoulder  facing  on  yoke 
wrong  side  up  with  notched  end  at  shoulder  edge  of  yoke, 
edges  even,  and  stitch  towards  neck  %"  from  raw  edges. 
Repeat  with  right  shoulder  facing,  sewing  from  neck  to 
shoulder.  Cut  threads. 

3.  Make  and  sewr  on  pocket :     Lay  pocket  in  machine  wrong  side 

up.  Fold  over  top  edge  as  far  as  side  notches,  turn  in  edge 
for  hem  and  sew  once  across.  Put  left  front  in  machine 
right  side  up.  Lay  pocket  in  position  with  top  edge  opposite 
bottom  of  armhole  and  front  edge  in  line  with  meeting  point 
of  neck  and  shoulder  edges.  Vary  position  nearest  distance 
sidewise  to  match  stripes.  Box  top  corner  at  armhole,  turn- 
in  edge,  and  sew  around  bottom  to  front  top  with  a  box 
finish  to  seam. 

4.  Join  fronts  to  back :     Lay  back  outside  on  machine  wrong  side 

up.  Place  right  front  on  top,  right  side  up,  with  its  shoulder 
edge  y±"  inside  shoulder  edge  of  back.  Stitch  across  a 
"foot"  away  from  shoulder  edge  of  front,  sewing  toward 
neck.  Repeat  with  left  front,  sewing  from  neck  to  arm- 
hole.  Pull  garment  out  flat  with  fronts  at  inside  position 
right  side  up.  Fold  raw  edge  in,  and  sew  from  armhole  to 
neck.  Repeat  with  right  shoulder,  sewing  from  neck  to 
shoulder. 

o.  Join  yoke  and  neck  facings  to  garment :  Lay  garment  outside 
on  machine  right  side  up.  Fold  over  upper  end  of  left  front 
hem  as  far  as  notch.  Refold  over  %"  of  this  hem  and  press 
flat.  Lay  left  neck-facing  and  yoke  over  these  hem  folds,  wrong 
side  up  with  shoulder  seams  of  yoke  and  body  part  matching 
and  neck  edge  Vs"  below  neck  edge  of  body.  Sew  from  left 
front  edge  around  neck  until  4"  from  right  front  edge.  Fold 
over  top  of  right  front  edge  as  far  as  notch  and  refold  over 
%".  Lay  these  front  hem  folds  under  the  right  end  of  the 
neck-facing  then  continue  the  seam  to  right  front  edge.  Trim 
off  front  end  of  facings.  Snip  raw  edge  of  the  neck  at  inter- 
vals with  scissors  so  that  in  next  operation  it  will  lie  flat. 
Turn  yoke  and  facings  over  to  inside  position  on  body  (or 
turn  neck  seam  inside  out),  pushing  the  angles  or  points  of 


48 

front  hems  out  sharp  and  definite  on  the  closed  end  of  scis 
sors. 

6.  Finish  front  hems  and  neck  facings :  Lay  garment  on  machine 
wrong  side  up  and  flatten  out  the  neck  seam  all  around. 
Tack  at  right  front  angle  or  point  then  sew  a  "foot"  away 
from  neck  edge  clear  around  to  left  front  point.  Continue 
this  seam  down  left  front  hem  a  "foot"  away  from  folded 
edge  to  bottom  of  jacket.  Turn  in  back  edge  of  left  front 
hem  and  sew  up  from  bottom  to  edge  of  neck-facing.  Turn 
in  lower  edge  of  neck  facings  and  yoke,  sewing  around  to 
right  front  and  down  to  bottom  of  jacket  on  back  edge  <>f 
right  front  hem.  (The  right  front  lias  no  seam  a  "foot" 
away  from  edge,  as  it  is  the  button  side  and  is  covered  over 
when  buttoned  up.) 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — labels,  size-tabs,  yokes,  neck  facings,  fronts,  pocket 

pieces,  backs,  thread. 

Tools — one-needle  flat  top  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — cut  apart,  crease,  join,  box,  turn  in,  fold  over,  re- 
fold over,  trim,  snip,  turn  inside  out. 

Location — top  edge  of  yoke,  notched  end  of  neck  facings,  out- 
side and  inside  on,  machine,  wrong  and  right  side  up,  edges 
even  or  offset  l/s"  or  y±",  opposite  left  armhole,  below  meet- 
ing point  of  neck  and  left  shoulder  edges,  facings  over  top 
ends  of  front  hem  folds,  facings  inside  on  body,  angles  or 
points  at  top  of  front  hems,  a  ' '  foot ' '  away  from  edge,  bottom 
of  front  hems,  back  edge  of  front  hems,  front  hem  notches. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  by  name  and  shape,  No.  80  white  thread 
Working  properties— nothing  special. 
Safety:     Nothing  special  beyond  needle  guard. 
Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science:     None. 

Mathematics:     Measuring  y#"  exact,  Vi"  accurate  to  1/16",  %" 
accurate  to  VK"  and  1"  accurate  to  y±"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVE  PIECER 

The  sleeve  piecer  operates  a  two-needle  flat  bed  machine  with 
folding  attachment.  Her  duty  is  to  join  the  sleeve  parts  with  a 
seam  running  lengthwise  of  the  arm.  Sleeves  come  in  two  parts 
because  they  can  be  cut  to  advantage  from  the  goods  in  that  way, 
and  the  cost  of  piecing  them  is  not  so  great  as  the  loss  of  goods 
would  be  if  cutting  them  in  wholes.  These  seams  must  always  be 
run  so  as  to  face  the  back. 
A,  Pants :  Nothing, 


49 

B.     Jacket : 

1.    Put  pieces  of  right  sleeve  in  the  machine  right  side  up  with 
front  piece  at  inside  position.     Sew  from  shoulder  to  wrist. 
Repeat  with  left  sleeve  sewing  from  wrist  to  shoulder. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — sleeve  pieces,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  machine  with  attachment,  scissors. 

Operations — joining. 

Location — right  side  up,  front  piece  inside  on  machine,  right 

and  left,  wrist  and  shoulder  ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeve  parts  by  size  and  shape.       No.  80  white 

thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  additional. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVE  MAKER 

The  sleeve  maker  uses  a  one-needle  machine  without  folder.  Her 
work  is  to  put  on  the  cuff  and  tack  the  ends  of  the  cuff  together 
ready  for  the  feller.  The  latter  operation,  however,  does  not  come 
until  after  the  sleeve  has  been  put  in  the  garment.  That  is,  the 
sleeve  is  sewn  in  after  the  cuff  is  on,  but  while  the  shoulder  end  is 
still  in  the  flat.  Cuffs  may  be  just  plain  bands  or  they  may  have 
angular  points  or  curved  lines  for  their  upper  edges.  In  the  ir- 
regular designs  the  widest  part  of  the  cuff  is  placed  on  the  upper 
side  or  back  of  the  arm. 

A.  Pants :     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.  Put  cuff  on  sleeve :     Put  left  sleeve  outside  on  machine  wrong 

side  up.  Lay  cuff  on  top  wrong  side  up,  straight  edges  even, 
and  widest  part  towards  back  of  sleeve.  Sew  across  a  "foot" 
away  from  edge.  Repeat  with  right  sleeve.  Fold  cuff  over 
into  outside  position  with  seam  exactly  at  edge,  and  crease 
goods  flat.  Put  sleeve  outside  on  machine  right  side  up  and 
sew  across  a  "foot"  away  from  edge  of  cuff.  Swinging 
sleeve  to  inside  position  right  side  up,  turn  in  and  sew  along 
upper  edge  of  cuff.  Trim  off  ends  of  cuff  even  with  sleeve. 
Repeat  with  right  sleeve. 

2.  Tack  ends  of  cuff:     Put  sleeve  outside  on  machine  wrong  side 

up,  and  cuff  end  furthest  off.  Fold  outer  end  of  cuff  over 
and  in  until  Vj."  from  inner  end.  Tack  V-/'  along  this  tipper 
raw  edge  and  edge  out.  Fold  the  1/i"  lower  extension  over 
to  meet  the  upper  tacked  edge,  and  fold  over  once  more 
making  a  hem  about  3/16"  wide.  Sew  a  box  tack  1"  long 
in  this  hem.  This  holds  cuff,  and  makes  a  starting  place  for 


50 

the  felling   machine.     This  operation  is  identical  for  both 
right  and  left  sleeves,  no  account  being  taken  of  the  direction 
which  the  felled  seam  faces,  both  being  started  at  the  cuff. 
Arrange  sleeves  in  pairs. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — sleeves,  cuffs,  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — cuffing,  hemming,  tacking,  edging  out. 
Location — outside  and  inside  on  machine,  right  and  wrong  side 
up,  right  and  left  sleeves,  back  or  outer  side  of  sleeve,  shoulder 
and  wrist  ends. 
Stock : 
Recognition — sleeves  right  and  left  by  seam,  cuffs  right  and  left 

by  shape,  No.  80  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety :     Needle  guard  on  foot  of  machine. 
Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics:     Measuring  i/t",  3/16",  i/2",  1"  by  eye,  a  "foot" 
away. 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

At  this  stage  the  examiner  receives  the  jacket  bodies  from  the 
first  part  girl  and  the  sleeves  from  the  sleeve  maker  in  separate 
bundles.  They  are  each  inspected  before  going  to  the  sleever. 

A.  Pants : 

1.  Examine  pants:  Check  length  of  sides  and  evenness  of  fly 
Inspect  all  seams  for  runoffs,  skips  and  raw  edges.  Look  for 
defects  in  goods. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.  Examine  sleeves:     Inspect  piecing  seam,  looking  for  straight 

seams,  runoff,  skip  stitches  and  raw  edges.  Inspect  cuffs 
for  similar  things,  and  also  for  width  of  tacked  hem  to  see 
that  it  is  not  too  wide  for  the  folder  of  the  felling  machine 

2.  Examine  jacket  body :     Check  for  even  distance  on  each  side 

of  neck  from  shoulder  seam  to  front  points.  Check  length 
of  front  hems  and  see  that  they  are  of  uniform  width.  Check 
position  of  pocket.  Look  in  all  three  cases  for  runoffs,  skip 
stitches,  raw  edges,  and  for  defective  goods. 

3.  Report  to  forelady  all  imperfect  garments  for  repair. 
Auxiliary  Information 

Trade 'Terms: 

Materials — pants,  jacket  bodies,  sleeves. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — checking  lengths,  inspecting  seams. 
Location — all  parts  of  garment  by  name. 


51 

Special — runoffs,  skip  stitches,  raw  edges. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  of  garment  by  name. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics  :    Measuring  uniform  widths  by  eye,  measuring  3/1  (i" 
boxed  hem  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUNDLE  BOY 

The  sorter  or  bundle  boy  takes  bundles  of  jacket  bodies  and 
sleeves  in  the  racks  and  carefully  checks  body  and  sleeve  bundles 
by  numbers  on  tags  so  that  the  sleever  'will  get  mated  bundles  tied 
together.  Each  heretofore  were  coming  through  the  processes  en- 
tirely independent  of  each  other,  and  must  now  be  checked  for  as- 
sembling. 

A.  Pants :     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.    Sort  and  tie  bundles  together :     Find  two  bundles  in  bins  hav- 
ing tags  with  identical  lot  and  bundle  numbers.     Tie  same 
together.     Place  in  bin. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — bundles. 
Tools — tie  strings. 
Operations — sorting,  tying. 

Location — position  of  bins  containing  certain  lot  numbers. 
Stock : 

Recognition — tags  by  lot  and  bundle  numbers. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVER 

The  sleever  operates  a  two-needle  flat  bed  machine  with  folder 
She  joins  sleeves  to  bodies. 

A.  Pants :     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.    Join  sleeves  to  body :     Snip  raw  edges  of  armhole  at  various 
points  to  help  it  spread  in  seam.    Lay  body  inside  on  machine 
right  side  up,  and  sleeve  in  right  position  on  outside.     Sew 
left  sleeve  from  front  to  back  of  armhole  and  right  sleeve 
from  back  to  front  (seam  facing  sleeveward). 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — bodies,  sleeves,  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — joining,  snipping. 


52 

Location — edge  of  armhole,  outside  and  inside  on  machine,  right 
side  up,  front  and  back  of  armhole,  seam  faces  sleeve,  right 
and  left  sleeve. 
Stock : 

Recognition — body,  right  and  left  sleeve,  No.  80  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Mathematics  :     None. 

Science:  Reversing  edge  of  shoulder  goods  back  into  the  seam 
requires  that  it  take  a  larger  circumference  of  a  circle,  that  is, 
the  edge  must  expand.  If  not  snipped  it  will  not  expand  but 
will  draw  and  pucker.  The  snipping  allows  goods  to  open 
up  at  the  cuts  and  thus  lie  flat. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FELLER 

The  felling  girl  runs  a  two-needle  special  machine  with  a  folder. 
The  head  extends  forward  from  edge  of  table  about  10"  or  12",  and 
the  bed  is  small  and  round  like  an  arm  so  that  sleeves  may  be  pushed 
back  over  it  when  joined  into  tubular  shape.  The  work  consists  of 
closing  sleeves  and  bodies. 

A.  Pants :     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.    Fell  sleeve  and  body  seams :     Insert  tacked  end  of  cuff  behind 
the  folder  under  the  needle.     Bring  edges  in  through  the 
scrolls  to  position.     Sew  from  cuff  to  armhole  then  down 
side  of  body  to  bottom.     Repeat  with  other  sleeve. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — jacket,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  special  with  folder,  scissors. 

Operations — felling. 

Location — cuff  behind  folder,  sleeve  edges  in  folder,  armhole, 

bottom  of  jacket. 
Stock :     Nothing  special. 

Safety  and  Care  of  Tools  :     Nothing  additional. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— MARKER 

The  marking  girl  has  two  stages  or  operations  on  the  jacket,  and 
one  on  the  pants.     In  the  former  she  must  mark  position  of  loops, 
then  after  the  buttonholes  are  sewn  through  the  loops  she  marks  for 
the  buttons. 
A.     Pants : 

1.  Mark  for  fly-buttons:  Lay  garment  flat  on  table  front  up. 
Turn  back  edge  of  outer  or  buttonhole  fly  until  holes  are 
partly  exposed.  Mark  opposite  them  on  button  side. 


53 

B.     Jacket : 

1 .  Mark  for  loops  or  frogs :     Lay  garment  flat  on  table  front  up. 

Select  pattern  by  size  number  on  label  sticker  and  place  over 
left  front  hem.  Mark  at  notches  in  pattern  with  pencil  or 
chalk. 

2.  Mark  for  buttons  (at  a  later  time  on  this  garment)  :     Lay  gar- 

ment flat  on  table  facing  up.  Put  loop  side  over  button  side 
in  exact  position  and  mark  through  buttonholes  with  pencil 
or  chalk. 

Auxiliary  Information 

Trade  Terms : 

Materials — pants,  jackets. 

Tools — black  pencil  or  colored   to  show   on   various  colors   of 
prints,  pattern. 

Operations — marking. 

Location — buttonhole  and  button  side  of  fly,  loop  and  button 

side  of  jacket,  fronts  up. 
Stock :     Nothing  additional. 

Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Do  not  waste  pencil  or  chalk. 
Drawing :     Marking  positions. 
Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— LOOP  GIRL 

The  loop  girl  sews  the  loops  or  frogs  on  the  buttonhole  side  of  the 
jacket  at  marks  indicated.  The  loops  are  made  of  fancy  braid  and 
are  already  tacked  into  shape,  so  that  they  can  be  sewed  with  a  row 
of  stitching  all  around,  following  middle  of  the  braid  except  around 
the  buttonhole  part,  where  the  stitching  is  along  the  inner  edge  to 
insure  neat  buttonhole. 

A.  Pants :     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.  Lay  left  front  hem  on  machine  right  side  up.  Place  loop  over 
mark  and  follow  all  around  the  braid  with  a  row  of  stitching 
Kepeat  as  many  times  as  marked. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — jacket,  loops  or  frogs,  thread. 

Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — stitching. 

Location — front  hem,  right  side  up. 
Stock : 

Recognition — thread  in  color  to  be  inconspicuous  on  loops. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 


54 

PAYROLL  JOB— HEMMER 

The  hemming  girl  operates  a  single  needle  flat  bed  machine  with- 
out folder,  and  hems  the  bottom  of  both  pants  and  jackets. 

A.  Pants: 

1.  Hem  bottoms :  Place  leg  of  garment  inside  on  machine  draw- 
ing back  the  upper  part  so  as  to  expose  lower  part  against 
the  bed  wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  %"  then  over  again  for 
a  %"  hem.  Stitch  once  around  along  the  turned  in  edge. 
Repeat  with  other  leg. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.  Hem  bottom :  Place  garment  inside  on  machine  wrong  side 
up.  Fold  over  •%"  hem,  turning  in  the  raw  edge  and  stitch- 
ing. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — pants,  jacket,  thread. 

Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — hemming,  folding  over,  turning  in. 

Location — bottom  of  garments. 
Stock : 

Recognition — No.  80  white  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 
Mathematics :     Measuring  %"  and  %"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

The  jacket  is  returned  to  the  examiner  after  it  has  been  sleeved, 
felled,  looped  and  hemmed,  so  that  these  operations  may  be  in- 
spected. 

A.  Pants:     Nothing. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.    Examine  jacket:     Inspect   seams  at   shoulder,   felling   seams, 
loops  and  bottom  hems  for  straightness,  runoffs,  skips  and 
raw  edges. 
Auxiliary  Information 

(See  under  first  stage  of  examining  this  garment.) 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The  buttonhole  machine  is  a  special  automatic  machine  which 
sews  a  pearl  stitch  all  around  the  position  where  the  buttonhole  is 
to  be,then  cuts  through  the  cloth  inside  the  stitches.  Its  head  stands 
forward  somewhat  from  the  table  so  that  garments  can  be  readily 
put  in  the  foot  in  any  required  position.  This  foot  moves  forward 
and  back,  carrying  the  goods  with  it,  and  its  motion  may  be  ad- 
justed to  any  length  of  buttonhole  required.  The  work  consists  of 
two  jobs  which  are  timed  widely  apart  in  the  making  of  the  pajama 


55 

suit,  the  buttonhole  fly  being  required  at  the  beginning  of  making 
the  pants,  and  the  jacket  coming  almost  at  the  end. 

A.  Pants : 

1.  Make  buttonhole  fly:  Fold  piece  along  the  middle  lengthwise, 
wrong  sides  in,  and  put  into  the  machine.  Number  of  holes 
is  indicated  by  a  table  of  sizes.  The  spacing  of  these  is  a 
matter  of  judgment  and  is  generally  arbitrarily  set  by  notic- 
ing where  the  end  of  the  fly  or  the  last  buttonhole  made  lies 
with  respect  to  some  part  of  the  bed  of  the  machine.  There 
is  no  divided  scale  of  any  kind  on  the  machine  for  spacing 
buttonholes. 

B.  Jacket : 

1.  Sew  buttonholes  in  jacket :  Put  one  of  the  loops,  which  have 
already  been  sewn  over  the  front  hem  at  marks  indicated 
by  the  marker,  under  the  machine  right  side  up.  Repeat  in 
any  desired  order  with  remaining  loops. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — fly-pieces,  jacket,  thread. 

Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — folding,  buttonholing. 

Location — middle  of  fly,  front  hem. 
Stock: 

Recognition — fly-pieces  by  shape,  No.  of  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 

Drawing,  Science  or  Mathematics :     Spacing  buttonholes  by  eye, 
accurately  to  y±"  lengthwise  of  goods  and  1/16"  crosswise. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTON  SEWER 

The  button  sewing  machine  is  a  special  machine  with  its  head 
standing  forward  from  edge  of  table.  The  buttons  are  placed  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  foot,  and  the  garment  in  the  lower  part  of  this 
same  foot.  The  whole  foot  is  controlled  by  a  cam  which  makes  it 
move  sidewise  back  and  forth  just  the  distance  between  holes  in  the 
button,  and  keep  time  exactly  with  the  needle.  If  four-hole  buttons 
are  used  a  second  cam  is  brought  into  use  which  compounds  the  side- 
wise  motion  with  a  back  and  forward  motion  at  the  same  time.  This 
brings  the  needle  first  over  two  holes  in  a  diagonal  direction,  and 
then  over  the  other  two  diagonally.  The  record  of  number  of  but- 
tons sewn  on  is  made  by  an  automatic  counter  attached  to  the  ma- 
chine. 
A.  Pants : 

1.  Sew  buttons  on  fly  :  Spill  buttons  from  carton  conveniently 
on  bed  of  machine  to  right  of  needle.  Put  one  in  foot  of 
machine.  Place  button  side  of  fly  right,  side  up  in  foot  of 


56 

machine  with  mark  under  center  of  button.     Hew  until  it  has 
been  sufficiently  well  attached.     Repeat  with  oilier  posi lions. 
B.     Jacket : 

1.  Sew  buttons  on  jacket :  Put  button  in  foot.  Lay  button  side 
of  front  in  foot  with  mark  under  center  ofbutton.  Sew  until 
judged  sufficiently  attached.  Repeat  with  balance  of  posi- 
tions. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — buttons,  pants,  jacket,  thread. 
Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — button  sewing. 
Location — button  side  of  fly  and  jacket  front. 
Stock : 

Recognition — pearl  buttons  by  sizes  in  cartons,  No.  80  white 

thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety :     Nothing  special. 

Care  of  Tools :  Buttons  must  be  placed  fair,  that  is  with  holes  in 
a  line  parallel  with  back  of  foot,  otherwise  needle  will  strike 
"off"  and  break. 

Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

So  far  as  the  sleeping  wear  department  is  concerned  the  pajama 
suit  is  now  complete.  The  departmental  product  is  checked  by  the 
desk  girl,  and  goes  down  the  chute  to  the  folding  department. 


The  second  of  two  typical  garments  which  are  to  be  described  in 
detail  as  a  part  of  the  sleeping  wear  department  product  is  the  night 
gown.  The  type  selected  will  be  a  plain  white  flannelette  with 
double  front  and  back  yokes,  the  front  yoke  being  trimmed  with 
braid  and  hem  stitching.  Sleeves  will  be  full  length  and  cuffed. 

A  skeleton  outline  of  the  making  of  this  nightgown  follows: 


No.               Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1     First  part  girl 

Join    lining   and    upper    front   yokes    together,   sew   on 

braid. 

1 

Hem  front  opening.     Sew  front  yokes  to  body,  sew 

label 

on   back   lining-yoke,   join   back  lining-yoke   to  body 

,   Join 

front  and  back  yokes. 

2          Hemstitcher 

Hemstitch  around  edge  of  braid. 

5           Sleeve  piecer 

Piece  sleeves. 

Sleeve  maker 

Put  cuffs  on  sleeves. 

Examiner 

Inspect  previous  workmanship  on   bodies  and  sleeves. 

Bundle  boy 

Sort  bundles  of  sleeves  and  bodies  to  match. 

Sleever 

Join  sleeves  to  body. 

I      Feller 

Close  in  sleeves  and  bodies. 

Hem  bottom. 

10          Examiner 

Inspect  finished  garment. 

11          Marker 

Mark  for  buttonholes  and  buttons. 

12          Buttonholer 

Make  buttonholes. 

13          Button  sewer 

Sew  on  buttons. 

14          Buttoner 

Button  up  garment. 

57 

DETAILED  JOB  ANALYSIS 

As  in  the  pajama  jackets,  it  will  be  noted  that  after  the  bundles 
come  from  the  cutting  room,  the  sleeve  parts  are  separated  from  the 
others,  and  two  sub-bundles  are  made  with  identical  numbers  on  the 
tags.  These  run  through  separately,  the  bodies  going  to  operators 
1  and  2,  and  the  sleeves  to  3  and  4,  then  both  to  operator  5  separately, 
after  which  they  are  mated  into  one  bundle  again  by  the  bundle  boy. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FIRST  PART  GIRL 

The  first  part  girl  uses  a  one-needle  machine  and  is  employed  ex- 
clusively on  the  yoke  construction.  In  plain  yokes  her  work  is 
continuous,  but  when  certain  kinds  of  fancy  stitching  are  added, 
the  operations  are  interrupted  by  this  extra  work  which  is  done 
upon  other  machines  by  other  operators  and  then  returned  for  com- 
pletion. In  the  case  of  the  garment  being  described,  the  first  pan 
girl  joins  the  front  lining  and  upper  yokes  together  and  sews  th\ 
braid  to  the  upper  yoke  according  to  whatever  design  has  beei. 
written  into  the  specification  for  that  lot  number.  It  then  goes  to 
the  hemstitcher  and  is  returned  for  further  processes  by  the  first 
part  girl. 

1.  Join  front  upper  and  lining  yokes:  Put  right  half  of  upper 
yoke  outside  on  machine  wrong  side  up.  Lay  correspond- 
ing lining  yoke  on  top  with  wrong  side  up  (i.  e.  parts  both 
rights  together).  Sew  along  neck  edge  a  "foot"  away  as 
far  as  bottom  of  front  edge  of  yoke.  Turn  parts  right  sides 
out  and  press  seam  flat.  Lay  yoke  on  machine  right  side  up. 
Place  braid  in  position  a  uniform  distance  from  neck  and 
bottom  edges,  cutting  at  angles  and  sewing  along  all  edges. 
Repeat  with  left  front  yoke. 

"2.  Hem  opening  of  body  front :  Lay  front  on  machine  wrong 
side  up.  Fold  over  right  or  buttonhole  side  as  far  as  notch 
on  top  edge  and  uniform  width  to  bottom  of  opening.  Turn 
in  the  edge  and  sew  along  it  from  top  to  bottom  of  opening. 
Swing  garment  in  machine,  repeating  with  left  or  button 
side,  but  sewing  from  bottom  to  top. 

3.  Join  front  yokes  to  body  front :  Lay  right  half  outside  on 
machine  with  lining  yoke  up  and  bottom  edge  towards  right, 
Fold  back  the  front  or  upper  yoke  underneath  far  enough  to 
escape  being  sewn  in.  Lay  body  front  over  right  half  of 
yoke  right  side  up  and  sew  to  lining  yoke  from  armhole  to 
V  from  notch.  Arrange  pleat  at  notch,  facing  towards  arm- 
hole  and  wide  enough  to  bring  front  hem  even  with  front 
line  of  yoke.  Complete  seam  to  front  edge.  Repeat  with 
left  front  yoke,  but  work  from  front  opening  to  arm  hole. 
Pull  out  both  yokes  from  beneath  into  position,  laying  uppei 
front  yoke  over  the  body  front  and  turning  in  the  lower  edg« 
to  cover  seam.  Sew  from  right  shoulder  joining  armhole 


58 

edges  together  as  far  as  body,  then  across  to  right  front. 
Repeat  with  left  part,  but  work  from  front  hem  to  armhole 
then  up  left  armhole  to  shoulder. 

4.  Box  bottom  of  front  opening:  Put  body  front  in  machine 
right  side  up.  Lay  right  front  hem  over  left,  checking 
length  from  neck  to  bottom.  Sew  a  box  tack  at  lower  end. 

f).  Sew  label  on  back  lining  yoke :  Lay  back  lining  yoke  in  ma- 
chine right  side  up.  Place  label  1"  from  top  edge  at  middle 
and  size  tab  under  one  end.  Sew  all  around  edge  of  label. 

6.  Join  lower  back  yoke  to  body:     (Note:     This  operation  re- 

quires a  single  folder  and  also  the  use  of  a  gathering  attach- 
ment to  take  up  the  extra  width  of  goods  in  the  body  back 
just  at  the  middle  of  the  yoke.)  Lay  body  outside  on  ma- 
chine wrong  side  up.  Lay  back  lining,  yoke  inside  on  ma- 
chine body  side  up.  Insert  yoke  in  folder.  Work  from 
right  armhole  to  say  2"  from  middle  of  back.  Start  gather- 
ing attachment  and  allow  it  to  operate  until  body  and  yoke 
are  both  taut  between  needle  and  hands  which  hold  parts  at 
left  armhole.  Stop  gathering  attachment  and  continue  seam 
to  end. 

7.  Join  back  and  front  yokes  at  shoulders :     Lay  body  back  out- 

side on  machine  wrong  side  up  with  lining  yoke  out  in  posi- 
tion. Lay  body  front  over  it  right  side  up  with  shoulder 
edges  of  front  parts  of  yoke  and  back  lining  yoke  even. 
Lay  upper  back  yoke  wrong  side  up  over  front  yoke  with 
shoulder  edges  even.  Sew  a  ''foot"  away  from  shoulder 
edges,  working  from  right  armhole  around  back  of  neck  to 
left  armhole.  Pull  out  body  back  from  .beneath  to  inside 
position  on  machine  and  right  side  up.  Pull  upper  back  yoke 
over  so  as  to  cover  its  own  lining  yoke.  Sew  along  shoulder 
seam  from  right  armhole,  then  a  "foot"  away  around  back 
of  neck,  then  along  shoulder  seam  to  left  armhole.  Turn  in 
bottom  edge  of  upper  back  yoke  to  cover  seam,  and  stitch 
across  from  right  sleeve  opening  to  left. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — front  and  back  yoke  pieces,  back  and  front  of  body, 
thread,  braid,  label  and  size  tab. 

Tools — single-needle  machine,  folder,  gatherer,  scissors. 

Operations — joining,  hemming,  boxing,  gathering,  turning  in. 

Location — upper  and  lower  (or  lining)  yokes,  right  and  left 
halves  of  front  yoke,  back  yoke,  top  edge  of  body  front  and 
body  back,  right  and  left  armholes,  shoulder,  neck  and  lower 
edges  of  yoke,  right  and  wrong  side  up,  inside  and  outside 
on  machine,  pleat  and  pleat  notches,  a  "foot"  away,  pleats 
facing  towards  armhole,  front  opening. 


59 

Stock : 

Recognition — yoke  and  body  parts  by  shape,  colors  and  stripes, 

No.  60  white  thread. 

Working  properties — stitch  may  be  made  longer  in  flannel  be- 
cause the  soft  goods  allows  it  to  sink  out  of  sight. 

Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  additional. 

Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics :  Judging  accurately  to  Vi"  the  distance  from  cen- 
ter to  start  gatherer  so  as  to  have  the  gathered  portion  of 
body  back  centrally  spaced. 

PAYROLL  JOB— HEMSTITCHER 

This  operator  runs  a  special  machine  which  requires  six  threads, 
two  being  colored  floss  and  four  the  usual  cotton.  Just  in  front  of 
the  needle  is  a  plunger  which  separates  the  fibres  of  the  goods.  The 
sewing  threads  below  and  above  hold  these  openings  permanently 
in  shape  and  at  the  same  time  enclose  the  colored  floss  along  the 
edges.  It  is  entirely  an  automatic  process. 

1.    Hemstitch  halves  of  front  yoke:     Lay  piece  in  machine  right 
side  up.     Sew  through  the  goods  just  along  and  outside  of 
the  edge  of  the  braid. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  "Terms: 

Materials — halves  of  front  yoke,  thread,  colored  floss. 
Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — hemstitching. 

Location — right  side  up,  just  outside  edge  of  braid. 
Stock : 

Recognition — right  and  left  halves  of  front  yoke,  No.  60  thread, 

colored  floss  by  shades. 
Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics  :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVE  PIECER 

The  sleeve  piecer  operates  a  two-needle  machine  with  folder. 
Sleeves  come  in  most  cases  from  the  cutting  room  in  two  parts  or 
pieces  and  these  have  to  be  sewn  together. 

1.    Piece  sleeves:     Lay  first  sleeves  in  machine  right  side  up,  so 
that  back  of  sleeve  lies  at  outside  position  (that  is,  all  sleeve 
seams  must  face  back  of  sleeve).     Set  in  folder  and  sew 
pairs,  rights  running  through  from  shoulder  to  wrist,  and 
lefts  from  wrist  to  shoulder. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  "Terms: 

Materials — sleeve-pieces,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 

Operations — piecing  or  hemming. 


60 

Location — front  and  back  of  sleeve,  shoulder  and  wrist  ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — front   and   back  parts   by   shape,   No.    60   white 
thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  additional. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVE  MAKER 

The  sleeve  maker  puts  cuffs  on  the  sleeves  with  a  single  needle 
machine. 

1.  Attach  cuffs  to  sleeve :     Pair  sleeves  as  check  on  piecer.    Place 

first  sleeve  outside  on  machine  right  side  up.  Lay  cuff 
underneath  right  side  up,  and  edges  even.  Sew  a  "foot" 
away  from  edges  half  way  across.  Make  pleat  in  sleeve 
part  facing  back  of  sleeve  and  taking  up  extra  goods  until 
length  of  cuff  and  width  of  sleeve  at  wrist  are  equal.  Con- 
tinue seam  to  end  of  cuff.  Pull  out  cuff  from  underneath 
and  fold  back  over  to  cover  seam.  Turn  in  edge  and  sew 
across.  Sew  across  folded  edge  of  cuff  a  "foot"  away. 
Trim  ends  of  cuff  if  needed. 

2.  Tack  cuff:     Lay  sleeve  outside  on  machine  wrong  side  up  and 

cuff  edge  furthest  away.     Fold  outer  end  of  cuff  over  and 
in  until  %"  from  other  end  of  cuff.     Tack  along  this  raw 
edge  about  V2"  then  edge  out.     Fold  the  lower  end  of  cuff 
over  to  meet  raw  edges  together  and  then  fold  over  once 
again  making  a  3/16"  hem.     Sew  a  box  tack  1"  along  on 
this  hem.     This,  holds  the  cuff  and  makes  a  starter  for  the 
felling  machine.     This  operation  is  identical  for  both  right 
and  left  sleeves. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — sleeves,  cuffs,  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — cuffing,  hemming,  pleating,  tacking,  edging  out. 
Location — outside  and  inside  on  machine,  right  and  wrong  side 
up,  right  and  left  sleeves,  back  or  outer  side  of  sleeve,  shoulder 
and  wrist  ends. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeves  right  and  left  by  seam,  cuffs  by  shape,  No 

60  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics:     Measuring  %",  V2",  3/16",  1"  by  eye,  a  "foot" 
away. 


61 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

The  examiner  receives  the  garment  in  two  separate  sub-bundles, 
which  are  inspected  possibly  at  different  times  and  without  any 
thought  of  their  connection. 

1.  Examine  sleeves:     Inspect  piecing  seams,  cuffs  and  tacking, 

looking  for  run-offs,  skips,  raw  edges  and  possible  defects  in 
goods.     Check  pairs  according  to  pleat  and  cut  of  cuff. 

2.  Examine   bodies :     Inspect   bodies   for  similar   points,   and   in 

addition  see  that  all  parts  of  the  yoke  fit  easily  or  sit  well, 
that  seams  a  ' '  foot ' '  away  are  not  too  far  from  the  edge,  and 
that  colors  and  stripes  are  not  mixed. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 
Materials — sleeves,  bodies. 
Tools — scissors. 
Operations — inspecting. 
Location — all  parts  of  garment  by  name. 
Special — run-offs,  skips,  raw  edges,  lie  flat  or  sit  well. 
Stock : 

Recognition — sleeves,  bodies. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science :     Nothing  special. 
Mathematics:     Measuring  a  "foot"  away  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUNDLE  BOY 

The  duty  of  bundle  boy  is  to  match  the  sub-bundles  by  their  lot 
and  bundle  numbers  on  card. 

1.    Select  bundle  of  sleeves  from  sleeve  bin.     Find  bundle  of  bodies 
with  similar  numbers  on  tag.     Tie  these  together  and  place 
in  a  third  bin. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — sleeves,  bodies. 
Tools — none. 

Operations — checking  numbers,  tying. 
Location — special  bins. 
Stock :     Bundles  by  numbers. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SLEEVER 

The  sleever  uses  a  two-needle  flat-bed  machine  with  folder  for  join- 
ing sleeves  to  body. 

1.  Join  sleeves  to  body :  Check  length  of  edges  of  sleeve  and  trim 
off  at  shoulder  end  if  unequal.  Snip  edges  of  armhole  at 
intervals.  Lay  body  inside  on  machine  and  sleeve  outside, 


62 

both  right  side  up  (seam  faces  sleeve).  Put  parts  in  folder, 
sewing  left  sleeve  from  front  towards  hack,  and  right  sleeve 
from  hack  to  front.  Podges  must  start  and  end  even.  Notch 
on  sleeve  must  meet  shoulder  seam. 

Auxiliary  Information 

Trade  Terms: 

Materials — sleeves,  bodies,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle  flat  top  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 
Operations — checking  length,  trimming,  snipping,  joining. 
Location — Right  and  left,  front  and  back,  inside  and  outside  on 

machine,  right  side  up. 
Stock : 

Recognition — right  and  left  sleeves,  bodies,  No.  GO  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Mathematics :     None. 

Science:  The  turning  back  of  edge  of  body  part  in  the  armhole 
seam  causes  it  to  take  a  position  on  a  larger  circle  than  at 
the  folded  edge.  That  is,  it  must  be  increased  in  length.  If 
snipped  the  edge  will  open  up  and  lie  flat.  If  not  it  will  draw 
the  seam  into  a  puckered  effect. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FELLER 

The  feeling  girl  operates  a  two-needle  special  machine  with  folder. 
The  head  stands  forward  from  the  table  8"  or  10",  and  the  bed  is 
small  and  round  so  that  a  closed  cuff  or  tubular  sleeve  may  slide  over 
it  behind  the  needles.  The  duty  of  this  machine  is  to  close  in  the 
arm  and  side  of  body. 

1.  Fell  garment:  Put  cuff  of  sleeve  (already  tacked)  behind 
folder  and  bring  edges  of  the  sleeve  part  into  place  in  folder. 
Sew  from  cuff  to  armhole  and  down  side  to  bottom  of  body. 
Repeat  with  other  side.  No  thought  is  taken  in  this  oper- 
ation for  direction  in  which  the  seam  faces. 

Auxiliary  Information 

Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment. 

Tools — two-needle  special  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 

Operations — felling. 

Location — cuff,  armhole,  bottom  of  body. 
Stock : 

Recognition — garment. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :    Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :    None. 


PAYROLL  JOB— HEMMER 

The  bottom  of  the  garment  is  hemmed  on  a  one-needle  machine 
without  folding  attachment. 

] .    Hem  bottom :     Place  garment  inside  on  machine.     Fold  over 
1"  of  underneath  layer  at  center  of  back  and  turn  in  edge 
as  stitching  is  done  completely  around  to  starting  point. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Material — garment. 

Tools — one-needle  flat  bed  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — hemming,  folding  over,  turning  in. 
Location — bottom  edge  of  gown  at  center  of  back. 
Stock :     Nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics:     Measuring  1"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

The  garment  is  inspected  a  second  time  to  check  on  the  sleeving, 
felling  and  hemming  work. 

1.    Examine  garment :     Inspect  sleeve  seams  at  shoulder,  felled 
seams  and  hem  at  bottom.     Check  for  lying  even,  straight 
seams,  and  for  the  usual  defects  011  seams. 
Auxiliary  Information 

(See  former  stage  of  examiner's  work.) 

PAYROLL  JOB— MARKER 

The  marker  spots  positions  for  buttons  by  marking  through  the 
buttonholes.  Only  on  such  garments  as  have  long  buttoned  parts 
is  it  necessary  to  mark  positions  for  buttonholes.  In  these  cases  it 
is  done  by  marking  at  V-shaped  notches  on  the  edge  of  a  pattern 
made  of  heavy  cardboard.  This  part  of  the  job  would  come  natural- 
ly before  the  buttonholer  gets  the  garment.  Button  positions  must 
always  be  marked  after  the  holes  are  sewn. 

1.  Mark  for  buttonholes:     Lay  garment  flat  and  even.     Select 

right  size  of  pattern.     Place  pattern  on  right  hem  of  front 
opening  and  mark  at  notches. 

2.  Mark  for  buttons  :     Lay  garment  flat  with  front  up.  Straighten 

out  front  hems  and  mark  through  holes  with  a  soft  black 
or  colored  pencil. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 
Materials — garment. 

Tools — pencil,  patterns  by  sizes  and  designs. 
Operation — marking. 
Stock :    Nothing  special, 


64 

Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The  buttonholes  are  made  on  a  special  machine,  described  under 
pajamas.  On  ladies'  nightgowns  there  may  be  no  buttons  or  front 
opening  so  that  the  job  preceding  this  job  and  the  one  following  it 
may  also  frequently  be  unnecessary  according  to  the  design.  In  this 
design  the  yoke  is  close  fitting  about  the  neck,  so  that  a  buttoned 
opening  is  needed. 

1.    Make  buttonholes :     Place  garment  in  machine  with  buttonhole 

hem  (right)  in  the  foot.     Sew  buttonholes  as  marked. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment,  thread. 
Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — sewing  buttonholes. 
Location — right  hem  of  front  opening. 
Stock :     Nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics:     None. 

PAYROLL   JOB— BUTTON   SEWER 

The  button  sewing  machine  was  described  under  pajamas.  On 
those  night  gowns  which  have  front  openings,  buttons  are  sewn  at 
marked  points. 

1.    Place  button  hem  of  garment  in  foot  of  machine.     Plcae  button 

in  upper  part  of  foot.     Sew  until  securely  fastened. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment,  buttons,  thread. 
Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — placing  buttons,  sewing. 
Location — left  hem  of  front  opening. 
Stock : 

Recognition — pearl  buttons  by  sizes  in  cartons. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Blunt  needle  breaks  buttons. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL   JOB— BUTTONER 

The  button  girl  has  simply  to  button  up  the  garment.  It  is  a 
monotonous  job  with  no  attractive  features  and  requiring  no  partic- 
ular knowledge. 

1.  Button  front  of  garment :  Start  at  neck  and  work  to  bottom 
of  pleat.  Tie  into  bundles.  Deliver  to  chute  to  folding  de- 
partment. 


65 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Location — button  sometimes  oft'  place  by  being  sewn  on  a  mis- 
taken mark.     Report  to  forelady. 
Safety :     Sharp  edges  on  imperfect  buttons  may  cut  finders. 

Children's  Sleeper  Department 

Children's  sleepers  are  made  largely  from  flannelette,  but  other 
lighter  cotton  goods  are  used  for  summer  weights.  Flannelette  is 
woven  and  napped  so  as  to  be  the  same  on  both  sides  so  that  there 
is  no  right  and  wrong  side  to  the  cloth,  but  cotton  goods  are  sized 
and  ironed  so  as  to  produce  a  glaze  on  one  side  which  is  generally 
used  as  the  right  side.  Some  cotton  goods  are  printed  on  one  side. 
When  speaking  of  the  right  side  of  flannelette,  we  mean  the  side 
which  becomes  the  outside  of  the  garment, 

Sleepers  are  union  garments,  made  sometimes  with  a  hood  attached 
at  the  neck,  and  also  as  a  rule,  though  not  always,  with  attached 
feet.  They  are  mostly  footed,  and  without  the  hood.  Sizes  are 
indicated  on  the  labels  by  years,  ranging  from  1  to  14.  The  design 
of  the  garment  provides  for  buttoning  from  neck  down  front  to 
bottom  of  a  boxed  pleat,  and  also  across  the  top  of  a  back  flap  reach- 
ing to  side  openings. 

The  construction  of  a  sleeper  may  be  summarized  in  the  follow- 
ing way : 


No.   I 

Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1 

Hemmer 

Hem   bottoms  of  backs. 

2     1 

First  part  jdrl 

Sew  belt  on  back,  hem  buttonhole  and  button  side  of  fronts, 

1 

join  fronts,   make  and  sew  on   pocket,  sew  on  toe-pieces. 

3 

Joiner 

Piece  sleeves   if  needed,   join  backs   of  pants,   join   sleeves   to 

1 

body,  join  shoulders. 

4 

Second   part  girl 

Hem    side   openings    on    pants,   sew    backhand   to   pants,    heel 

1 

bottom  of  pants,   sew  cuffs  on  sleeves,  sew   on  collar. 

6     1 

Feller 

Fell  sleeves  and  outside  and  inside  seams  of  legs. 

6     1 

Examiner 

Inspect  workmanship. 

7     1 

Tacker 

Tack  wrist  and  side  ends   of  felled  seams. 

8     1 

Buttonholer 

Make  buttonholes  on  front,  backhand  and  cuffs. 

9     I 

Markers 

Mark   for  buttons. 

10     1 

Button  sewer 

Sew  on  buttons. 

11     1 

Buttoner 

Button  garment  ready  for  folding  department. 

DETAILED  JOB  ANALYSIS 

There  is  sufficient  instructional  material  connected  with  the 
various  machines  and  goods  used  throughout  the  processes  of  making 
this  sleeper,  to  warrant  a  detailed  study  of  the  operations  in  order 
that  new  operators  may  be  given  adequate  instruction  on  processes 
and  auxiliary  information  which  goes  with  them. 

In  the  study  which  follows  it  may  appear  as  if  but  one  garment  is 
being  made.  The  reader  must  interpret  always  that  twenty-four 
similar  garments  are  going  through  in  each  case.  Sometimes  the 
operations  go  singly,  sometimes  in  pairs,  or  maybe  in  threes  or  fours 


66 

as  the  pieces  go  through  once.  This  is  a  matter  for  careful  study 
by  operators  to  determine  just  what  is  for  them  individually  the  mosl 
rapid  and  efficient  method  of  handling. 

PAYROLL  JOB— HEMMER 

The  hemming  girl  operates  a  one-needle  machine  with  folder  at- 
tachment, running  a  hem  across  the  bottom  of  the  back  piece. 
1.    Hem  backs:     Lay  back  outside  on  machine  wrong  side  up.    Put 
left  bottom  edge  in  folder  and  stitch  across  to  right  corner. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Material — flannelette,  cambric  or  print  backs,  white  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  flat-top  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 
Operations — hemming. 
Location — wrong  side  up,  left  and  right,  bottom  edge,  setting 

folder  fair. 
Stock : 

Recognition — backs  by  shape,  No.  60  white  thread. 
Working  properties — flannel  gives  off  a  great  deal  of  lint,  mak- 
ing it  necessary  to  clean  machine  more  frequently.     Absence 
of  starch  or  sizing  makes  goods  limp,  edge  of  goods  must  be 
fed  in  with  fingers  close  to  the  folder,  and  an  even  tension 
held  on  goods  to  prevent  gathering  or  drawing. 
Safety :     The  folder  acts  as  a  guard  to  the  needle.' 
Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FIRST  PART  GIRL 

The  first  part  girl  operates  a  one-needle  flat  top  machine  without 
attachments.  She  works  on  the  front  part  of  the  garment  with 
exception  of  sewing  the  belt  across  the  middle  of  back.  This  belt 
serves  no  function  beyond  being  a  button-stay. 

1.  Sew  belt  to  back :     Check  for  even  length  of  right  and  left  side 

from  arm's  eye  to  notch.  Lay  back  inside  on  machine  right 
side  up,  bottom  edge  to  the  left.  Place  belt-piece  right  side 
up  with  upper  edge  opposite  notches.  Turn  in  edge  and 
stitch  across  from  left  to  right,  returning  similarly  on  lower 
edge  of  belt,  but  leaving  both  ends  open. 

2.  Hem  front  opening:     Lay  right  front  (buttonhole  side)  inside 

on  machine  wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  hem  to  notch,  making 
uniform  width  to  bottom  of  opening.  Turn  in  edge  and  sew 
down  from  neck  to  bottom  along  inner  edge  of  hem.  Lay 
left  front  (button  side)  inside  on  machine  Avrong  side  up. 
Fold  over  hem  to  notch  at  neck,  but  narrowing  to  y2"  width 
at  bottom.  Turn  in  edge  and  stitch  from  bottom  to  neck 
along  inner  edge. 


67 

3.  Join  fronts :     Lay  fronts  in  machine  right  side  up.     Cheek  for 

length  from  neck  to  bottom  of  hems.  Lay  right  front  hem 
over  left  and  stitch  across  at  bottom  of  pleat.  Turn  in  edge 
of  right  front  below  pleat  to  crotch  and  stitch  along  edge 
returning  from  crotch  to  front  a  "foot"  away.  Box  bottom 
of  front  hems. 

4.  Make  and  sew  on  pocket :     Lay  pocket-piece  inside  on  machine 

wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  top  as  far  as  notches  and  stitch 
across  top  of  fold.  Lay  right  front  of  garment  in  machine 
right  side  up.  Place  pocket  with  top  edge  1"  below  arm's 
eye,  and  "3  fingers"  away  from  right  hem.  (If  striped  goods, 
match  stripes  nearest  way  right  or  left.)  Turn  in  side  edge 
nearest  front,  boxing  top  corner  and  stitching  around  to 
armhole  corner  with  a  box  tack  at  finish. 

5.  Sew  on  toe-pieces :     Lay  garment  outside  on  machine  right  side 

up.     Place  toe-piece  over  bottom  of  leg  wrong  side  up  at 
level  of  notches.     Stitch  around  near  edge  from  notch  to 
notch,  nothing  being  turned  in. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — back,  back-belt  or  button-stay,  fronts,  pocket-piece, 

toe-pieces,  white  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  flat  top  machine,  scissors. 
Operations— checking  lengths,  hemming,    turning    in,    folding 

over,  boxing,  joining/ tacking. 

Location — arm's  eye  or  armhole,  right  and  wrong  side  up,  out- 
side and  inside  on  machine,  right  and  left  sides,  buttonhole 
and  button  sides,  neck,  bottom  of  front  hem,  crotch,  a  "foot" 
away,  "3  fingers  away,"  bottom  of  leg. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  by  name  and  shape,  No.  60  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety :     Needle  guard  on  foot  to  protect  fingers. 
Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science:     None. 
Mathematics :     Measuring  Vi/',  1"  and  "3  fingers"  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB- JOINER 

The  joiner  operates  a  two-needle  flat  bed  machine  with  a  folder. 
Sleeves  may  come  from  the  cutting  room  in  whole  pieces  or  in  two 
pieces,  some  bundles  having  some  of  each  kind.  The  joiner  checks 
this  and  joins  or  pieces  those  necessary.  She  also  joins  all  other 
parts  which  are  done  on  the  flat  with  double  seams. 

1.  Piece  sleeves:  Lay  first  sleeve  in  machine  right  side  up.  so 
that  back  of  sleeve  lies  at  outside  position  (that  is,  all  sleeve 
seams  must  face  back  of  sleeve).  Set  in  folder  and  stitch  in 


68 

pairs,  right  running  through  from  shoulder  to  wrist,  and 
left  from  wrist  to  shoulder. 

2.  Join  shoulders :     Lay  back  of  garment  inside  on  machine  right 

side  up.  Lay  front  in  outside  position  right  side  up  (that  is, 
shoulder  seam  always  faces  front).  Set  right  shoulder  in 
folder,  sewing  towards  neck,  following  with  left  shoulder 
from  neck  to  arm  hole.  Trim  ends  of  seam  if  needed. 

3.  Join  sleeves  to  body:     Lay  body  inside  on  machine  right  side 

up,  and  left  sleeve  outside  in  position  (that  is,  shoulder  seam 
must  face  the  sleeve).  Set  front  corners  of  sleeve  and  arm- 
hole  in  folder  and  stitch  through  to  back  of  sleeve.  Place 
right  armhole  and  sleeve  in  position,  stitching  from  back  of 
sleeve  over  shoulder  to  front  corner. 

4.  Join  backs  of  pants  :     Place  right  back  outside  and  left  back  in- 

side on  machine  right  side  up.     Set  in  folder,  sewing  from 
crotch  to  top.     Trim  ends  of  seam  even  if  needed. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — sleeve-pieces,  front  and  back  of  garment,  backs  of 

pants,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle,  flat  bed  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 
Operations — seaming. 

Location — right  side  up,  outside  and  inside,  shoulder  and  wrist 
ends,  armhole,  neck,  back  and  front  of  sleeve,  right  and  left 
back  of  pants,  crotch,  seam  faces  backward  or  sleeveward. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  by  name  and  shape,  No.  60  white  thread. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— SECOND  PART  GIRL 

The  second  part  girl  continues  the  single  needle  work,  putting  on 
cuffs  and  collars,  and  hemming  sides  and  top  of  the  pants. 

1.  Hem  side  openings  on  pants :     Lay  back  of  pants  inside  on  ma- 

chine wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  to  depth  of  side  cut  on  left 
openiing,  and  to  notch  on  top  edge.  Sew  from  bottom  of 
hem  to  top  edge,  turning  in  edge.  Repeat  with  right  side 
opening,  sewing  from  top  down  and  edging  out. 

2.  Sew  backhand  to  pants :     Double  band  end  to  end,  and  notch 

edge  at  middle  fold  with  scissors  (used  as  a  marker  to  notch 
rest  of  bundle).  Put  pants  outside  on  machine  wrong  side 
up.  Lay  band  along  top  edge  wrong  side  up  with  notch  at 
joining  seam.  Fold  over  end  of  band  until  even  with  hem 
of  right  side  opening.  Stitch  across  top  edge,  folding  over 
left  end  of  band  at  finish  of  seam.  Swing  garment  to  inside 
position,  right  side  up.  Pull  backhand  out  into  position  and 


69 

fold  over  just  to  cover  seam.  Turn  in  right  end  of  band,  and 
lower  edge.  Sew  down  right  end  and  across  lower  edge  to 
left  opening.  Turn  in  left  end  of  band  and  sew  up,  then 
across  top  edge  towards  right.  Near  right  end  of  band  in- 
sert label  under  needle  with  size  tab  under  its  lower  edge. 
Sew  once  around  label  and  continue  seam  to  end. 

3.  Heel  bottom  of  pants :     Put  garment  outside  on  machine  right 

side  up.  Fold  inside  bottom  corner  of  right  leg  over  to  out- 
side corner.  Sew  across  from  outside  to  fold,  about  %" 
away,  turning  no  edges  in.  Repeat  with  left  leg,  sewing 
from  fold  to  outside  edge. 

4.  Sew  cuffs  to  sleeves :     Place  sleeve   of  garment  in  machine 

wrong  side  up.  Fold  over  hems  for  wrist  opening  from  seam 
cut  to  end  notch,  sewing  up  sleeve  on  one  hem  and  down 
sleeve  on  the  other.  Swing  sleeve  into  outside  position  and 
lay  cuff  over  it  wrong  side  up  with  edges  even.  Sew  across 
near  the  edge,  folding  over  ends  of  cuffband  even  with  sleeve 
at  start  and  finish  of  seam.  Swing  sleeve  to  inside  position 
right  side  up  and  pull  cuff  out  from  beneath  into  position. 
Fold  over  onto  sleeve  to  cover  seam.  Turn  in  ends  and  edge 
of  cuff  and  sew  all  around.  Repeat  with  other  sleeve. 

5.  Sew  on  collarband  :     Fold  and  mark  middle  and  quarters  of 

collarband  by  notch  with  scissors.     Put  garment  outside  on 
machine  wrong  side  up.     Lay  collarband  wrong  side  up  over 
garment  with  edges  even.     Fold  over  ends  even  with  front 
hems  and  sew  across  near  the  edge.     Swing  garment  to  in- 
side position  right  side  up.     Pull  collarband  from  beneath 
out  into  position  and  fold  back  over  to  cover  seam.     Turn 
in  ends  and  lower  edge  and  sew  all  around. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade*  Terms: 

Materials — garment  (fronts  and  back  sleeved),  pants,  backhand, 

label  and  size  tab,  cuffs,  collarband,  thread. 
Tools — one-needle  machine  without  folder  attachments. 
Operations — hemming,  folding,  heeling,  cuffing,  collaring. 
Location — right  and  wrong  side  up,  outside  and  inside  on  ma- 
chine,  folding   over,   turning  in,  edging   out,  side   openings, 
bottom  of  legs,  top  of  pants,  wrist,  neck,  front  hems. 
Stock : 

Recognition — all  parts  by  name  and  shape. 
Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools:     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics  :     None. 

PAYROLL,  JOB  -FELLER 

The  feller  girl  operates  a  special  two-needle  machine  with  folder 
attachment.     The  machine  head  extends  forward  over  the  table  so 


70 

that  the  closed  in  garment  may  pass  back  over  the  arm-like  bed.  The 
operation  consists  practically  of  joining  a  continuous  felled  seam 
from  wrist  opening  to  wrist  opening,  having  passed  along  sleeves, 
outseams,  inseams  and  feet. 

1.  Place  end  of  right  sleeve  opening  in  folder.  Stitch  from  wrist 
to  armhole  and  down  right  side,  joining  front  to  back  as  far 
as  bottom  of  right  side  opening.  Repeat  with  left  sleeve 
and  side.  With  garment  still  in  machine,  lay  left  end  of 
backhand  of  pants  over  belt  on  back,  checking  length  by 
notches  on  front  and  back  at  bottom  of  left  side  opening. 
Sew  from  notch  down  left  outseam,  joining  front  and  back 
of  leg.  Turning  heel  and  toe  parts  right  side  in,  continue 
seam  around  under  arch  of  the  foot  to  and  along  left  inseam. 
Continue  from  crotch  around  right  leg  to  notch  at  bottom  of 
right  side  opening,  checking  right  ends  of  backhand  and  belt 
when  needle  has  reached  about  knee  height  on  the  up  seam. 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment  in  two  parts,  front  and  pants,  thread. 

Tools — two-needle,  special  machine  with  folder,  scissors. 

Operations — felling,  joining. 

Location — right  and  left  wrists  and  side  openings,  ends  of  back- 
band  and  backbelt. 
Stock : 

Recognition — body  and  pants,  No.  60  white  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics  :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— EXAMINER 

The  examiner  inspects  all  previous  workmanship  on  the  sleeper. 

1.  Examine  collar,  front  pleat  and  pocket,  looking  for  run-offs, 

skip  stitches,  raw  edges,  tacking,  and  seeing  that  parts  lie 
even.  Check  length  of  sides  of  front  opening.  A  difference 
of  14"  must  go  back. 

2.  Examine    felling,   backhand   and   backbelt    for    run-offs,    skip 

stitches,  raw  edges,  and  see  that  parts  lie  even.  Check  length 
of  side  openings. 

3.  Examine  cuffs  and  sleeves  at  shoulder  for  run-offs,  skip  titches, 

raw  edges,  and  see  that  cuffs  lie  even. 

4.  Check  for  mixed  colors  or  stripes,  thin  spots  or  holes  in  goods. 

Report  defects  to  forelady,  who  repairs  and  marks  such 
garments  as  seconds. 

5.  Report  defective  workmanship  to  forelady,  who  returns  them 

to  the  operator  responsible. 


71 

Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — child's  sleeper,  all  parts  by  name. 

Tools — none. 

Operations — examining,  inspecting,  checking  lengths. 

Location — all  parts  by  name. 

Special — run-offs,  skip  stitches,  raw  edges,  thin  spots,  straight 

seams,  lie  even,  seconds. 
Stock : 

Recognition — parts  differing  in  color  by  shades  and  stripes,  and 
differing  in  weight  or  thickness. 

Working  properties — none. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 
Mathematics:     Measuring  y±"  and  less  by  eye. 

PAYROLL  JOB— T ACKER 

The  tacker  operates  a  special  machine  which  has  an  automatic 
movable  foot  sliding  over  the  main  bed.  The  garment  is  slid  into 
this  foot,  and  when  machine  is  set  in  operation  it  slides  the  goods 
under  the  needle  three  times  sidewise,  with  a  straight  seam  return- 
ing the  fourth  time  with  a  staggered  or  sawtooth  seam  crossing  the 
first  three  stitchings  six  or  eight  times.  The  length  of  this  tacking 
can  be  adjusted,  but  it  is  usually  set  for  «%"  or  V .  The  head  is  set 
forward  so  that  sleeves  may  be  slid  over  the  end  of  the  arm  bed. 
Record  of  work  done  is  read  from  a  registering  counter  linked  with 
the  machine  so  as  to  indicate  the  number  of  tackings  made  by  oper- 
ator. 

1.    Tack  end  of  felled  seams  at  wrist  openings.     Tack  end  of  felled 

seams  at  bottom  of  side  openings. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment. 

Tools — special  tacking  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — tacking. 

Location — left  and  right  wrist  and  side  openings. 
Stock :     Nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTONHOLER 

The  special  automatic  machine  used  in  making  buttonholes,  sews 
around  the  position  with  a  pearl  stitch,  then  cuts  through  the  goods 
inside  the  stitching.  Buttonholes  are  made  in  cuffs,  front  pleat  and 
backhand. 

1.  Place  outside  end  of  cuff  in  machine  and  sew  buttonhole. 

2.  Place  outer  pleat  of  front  opening  in  machine,  and  sew  as  many 


72 

holes  as  required  for  size  of  garment,  working  from  top  of 
pleat  to  bottom  and  spacing  by  eye  or  chosen  points  on  bed 
of  machine. 

3.    Place  backhand  in  machine  and  sew  as  many  holes  as  required 
for  size  of  garment,  working  end  holes  first,  then  intermedi- 
ate positions  by  eye  or  marks  on  machine. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Material — garment,  names  of  parts,  thread. 

Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 

Operations — buttonholing. 

Location — outer  ends  of  right  and  left  cuffs,  front  pleat,  ends 

of  backhand. 

Stock  :     No.  60  white  thread. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     Nothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 

Mathematics :     Measuring  position  of  holes  by  eye  correct  to  1/16" 
on  cuffs,  %"  on  pleat  or  backhand. 

PAYROLL  JOB— MARKER 

The  marker  locates  position  of  buttons  by  marking  with  soft  pen- 
cil through  all  buttonholes. 

1.    Lay  garment  flat  with  buttonholes  and  button  sides  in  position 

and  mark  through  middle  of  buttonholes. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade 'Terms: 

Material — garment. 
Tools — soft  black  pencil. 
Operations — laying  flat,  marking. 
Location — cuffs,  front  pleats,  backhand  and  backbelt. 
Stock :     Nothing  additional. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing :     Marking  locations  through  holes. 
Science  and  Mathematics:     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTON  SEWER 

The  button  sewer  operates  a  special  machine  which  holds  the 
button  in  a  foot  which  moves  along  with  the  cloth  back  and  forth 
sidewise  far  enough  to  bring  the  two  holes  alternately  under  the 
needle.  This  oscillation  keeps  exact  time  with  the  movement  of  the 
needle.  For  four-hole  buttons,  a  second  adjustment  adds  a  forward 
and  back  motion  so  that  the  needle  registers  over  the  four  holes,  first 
two  diagonally  till  fully  sewn,  then  the  remaining  two.  The  num- 
ber of  threads  sewn  through  is  a  matter  of  judgment  of  the  operator 

1.  Lay  buttons  of  required  sizes  conveniently  on  table  of  machine 
near  foot.  Put  button  in  foot  with  holes  square  across. 
Place  garment  with  mark  underneath  foot  and  release  foot 


73 

treadle.     Sew  according;  to  judgment.     Sew  on  buttons  in 
following  order:  front  pleat  from  bottom  to  top,  one  cuff, 
across  backbelt  or  button  stay,  remaining  cuff. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms: 

Materials — garment,  pearl  buttons,  thread. 
Tools — special  machine,  scissors. 
Operations — sewing  on  buttons,  adjusting  machines. 
Location — machine  bed,  button  foot,  cuffs,  front  pleat,  back  belt. 
Stock : 

Recognition — two  or  four-hole  buttons,  firsts  or  seconds,  No.  60 

white  thread. 

Working  properties — nothing  special. 

Safety :     Second  buttons  have  sharp   or  wane  edges  which  fre- 
quently cut  fingers. 
Care  of  Tools :     Button  must  be  set  in  fair  or  needle  will  strike 

"off"  and  break. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BUTTONER 

The  buttoner  closes  up  all  parts  of  the  garment.     There  is  no 
given  series  for  buttoning  operations  which  would  be  better  than 
another.     The  girl  adopts  an  order  which  is  for  herself  most  rapid 
and  saving  of  effort.     Auxiliary  konwledge  is  so  slight   as  to  be 
almost  negligible. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — garment, 
Tools — none. 
Operations — buttoning. 
Location — front,  cuffs,  backhand. 
Stock :     Nothing  additional. 
Safety:     Handle  buttons  so  as  to  avoid  cuts  from  sharp  edges  on 

seconds. 

Care  of  Tools  :     None. 

Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics :     None. 

The  child's  sleeper  is  completed  so  far  as  the  Sleeping  Wear  De- 
partment is  concerned  when  the  buttoner  has  finished.  The  bundles 
are  turned  in  to  the  desk  girl  for  recording,  and  are  afterwards  sent 
down  the  chute  to  the  Folding  Department. 

Folding  Department 

All  garments  from  the  Sleeping  Wear  and  Children's  Sleeper 
Department  are  delivered  to  the  Folding  Department  in  bundles  of 
twenty-four.  It  is  the  work  of  this  department  to  fold,  press,  sort 
and  box  the  garments.  In  this  particular  department  there  is  in- 
cluded also  the  product  of  branch  factories  which  have  made  up 


74 

special  lines  such  as  men's  fancy  shirts  and  work  shirts.  The  rangv1 
of  garments  folded  and  boxed  covers  men's  night  shirts,  pajamas, 
pajunions,  work  shirts  and  fancy  shirts ;  ladies'  nightgowns,  pajamas, 
pajunions  and  pajunettes;  and  children's  sleepers.  A  few  children's 
rompers  and  ladies 'bloomers  are  produced,  but  these  are  only  spe- 
cials. The  standard  lines  are  sleeping  wear  and  shirts. 

A  general  view  of  the  department  is  shown  by  the  following 
schedule : 


No.   | 

Payroll   Job 

Work  Jobs 

1     1 
1 
2     l 

Folder 
Presser 

Fold     nightshirts,     pajamas,     pajunions,     pajunettes,     night- 
gowns,  sleepers,  work  shirts,  fancy  shirts. 
Press     fancy    shirts,    work    shirts,    pajamas,    pajunions     and 

3     | 
4     I 
I 

Label   girl 
Boxer 

Label   boxes. 
Sort    folded    and    pressed    garments    according    to    size    and 
colors,  tie   in  bundles  and  wrap,  box  and  tie. 

DETAILED  JOB  ANALYSIS 

Since  the  purpose  to  be  served  by  this  study  is  to  provide  data 
which  may  be  used  by  instructors  particularly  with  girls  who  are 
employed  in  departmental  jobs,  a  detailed  analysis  will  cover  only 
such  employments  as  are  suitable  for  girls,  and  will  include  only 
among  these  such  as  are  concerned  with  the  garments  which  were 
detailed  in  manufacture,  namely,  nightgowns,  pajamas  and  sleepers. 
All  garments  are  folded  in  the  same  general  way,  slight  differences 
can  be  enlarged  only  on  the  job. 

PAYROLL  JOB— FOLDER 

This  work  is  done  exclusively  by  girls.  The  folding  table  is  some- 
what higher  than  ordinary  tables  so  that  working  conditions  may  be 
comfortable.  The  folder  thinks  of  the  left  end  as  the  top  and  gar- 
ments are  always  laid  top  to  left.  The  surface  of  the  table  is  marked 
crosswise  from  a  top  line  to  indicate  the  sizes  of  boxes  into  which 
garments  are  afterwards  packed.  Folds  are  then  made  within  these 
particular  lines.  Small  sleepers  are  folded  extra  small  for  packing 
two  side  by  side  in  boxes.  Folding-boards  made  of  heavy  millboard 
are  used  in  some  garments  to  control  shape  and  size.  The  board  is 
withdrawn  before  pinning  has  been  completely  finished. 

1.  Fold  pajamas:  Straighten  out  pants  at  top  and  with  legs 
even.  Lay  on  table  with  top  at  top  line.  Arrange  and  pin 
girdle  with  fringed  ends  out  at  middle  of  top  end.  Fold  legs 
up  until  bottoms  are  past  top  line  8"  or  10".  Lift  upper  leg 
and  fold  underneath  itself,  its  fold  being  even  with  top  line, 
leaving  end  of  lower  leg  extending  out.  Pin  and  place  aside. 
Lay  jacket  front  down,  even  with  top  line.  Lay  pants  over 
jacket  with  tops  even.  Lay  over  the  near  and  far  sides  and 
pin.  Fold  sleeves  back  out  with  cuffs  extending  over  edge, 
and  pin.  Fold  bottom  up  to  required  line  on  table  and  pin 


end  in  place.  Fold  remaining  pant  leg  back  over  onto  body 
and  pin  into  position.  Turn  garment  over  and  pin  cuffs  to 
front  of  jacket.  This  leaves  garment  so  that  front  shows 
jacket  and  style  of  cuffs,  and  label  on  inside  of  back  yoke, 
while  back  shows  ends  of  girdle  (plain  or  fringed)  and 'style 
of  pants  bottom — plain,  or  looped  and  buttoned. 

2.  Fold  sleeper : 

a.  Large  sized  garment — Lay  face  or  front  up,  with  top  at 
top  line.     Fold  sleeves  across  breast.     Fold  feet  up  to  re- 
quired folding  line  on  table.     Fold  over  again  even  with 
top.     Turn  garment  over  and  pin  at  edges. 

b.  Small  sized  garment — Lay  face  up.     Lap  over  sides  to 
near  middle  and  fold  sleeves  in  to  neck  edge  and  then  over 
and  down  with  cuffs  lying  side  by  side.  Fold  bottom  to  mark. 
Fold  over  once  again  to  top.     Turn  garment  over  and  pin 
at  edges.     Both  of  these  folds  show  label  on  outside  near 
right  end  of  backhand. 

3.  Fold  nightgown:     Lay  garment  face  down.     Fold  over  sides 

part  way  to  middle.     Re-fold  edges  back  over  so  as  to  get 
sleeves  outside  side  lines.     Fold  bottom  up  until  at  required 
mark  on  table.     Fold  over  once  again  to  top.     Pin  parts  to- 
gether.    Turn    garment    over   and    pin    sleeve    cuffs    across 
front  of  gown.     This  shows  label  on  inside  of  back  yoke, 
and  style  of  cuffs,  yoke,  and  front  pleat. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — pajamas,  sleepers,  nightgowns.     ' 
Tools — folding-boards,  pins. 
Operations — folding,  lapping  over,  pinning. 

Location — top  line  en  table,  various  folding  lines  on  table,  front 
of  garment  up  or  down  on  table,  near  side  and  far  sides  of 
garment  as  it  lies  on  table,  fold  under,  fold  over,  fold  up 
(from  right  to  left  or  top  end). 
Stock :     Nothing  special. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing,  Science  and  Mathematics:     None. 

PAYROLL  JOB— PRESSER 

The  pressing  of  garments  varies  considerably.  Some  are  partly 
pressed  before  folding,  and  finished  afterwards,  others  are  not 
pressed  until  after  folding,  and  some  not  at  all.  The  work  being 
relatively  heavy,  it  is  not  given  to  young  girls,  but  is  given  to  men 
and  women  who  are  physically  able  to  work  without  undue  fatigue. 
Two  types  of  irons  are  used,  one  being  gas  heated,  and  the  other 
electrically  heated.  The  latter  is  the  type  commonly  used  in  the 
home,  and  is  used  by  the  women  pressers.  The  gas  heated  iron  also 


76 

has  steam  connection  to  moisten  the  garment  as  it  is  ironed.     This 
iron  is  considerably  heavier  and  is  used  exclusively  by  men. 

Xo  detailed  analysis  is  made  of  this  job  because  girls  arc  not 
except  in  exceptional  cases  given  this  work  to  do. 

PAYROLL  JOB— LABEL  GIRL 

The  duties  in  this  are  two-fold  according  as  the  garments  are  to 
be  enclosed  in  cardboard  boxes  or  wrapped  in  paper  bundles. 

1.  Prepare  Avrappers:  Tear  off  paper  from  roll  in  size  according 
to  descriptive  sheet  specification  for  particular  lot  number. 
Stick  gummed  label  on  each  sheet  in  such  position  that  it 
will  show  later  on  wrapped  bundle  just  at  the  end  of  the 
bundle. 

"2.    Prepare  boxes :     Consult  descriptive  sheet  for  size  and  kind  of 
box  for  particular  lot  number.     Count  out  number  of  boxes 
required.     Stick  labels  on  boxes  or  covers  according  to  kind. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — wrapping  paper,  boxes,  labels. 
Tools — paste  and  brush. 

Operations — tearing  off,  labeling,  counting  out. 
Location — position  of  label  on  sheet  for  various  sized  bundles. 
label  on  end  of  box  or  cover  according  to  its  style  or  size, 
stock-piles  of  empty  boxes  by  sizes,  and  lot  numbers. 
Stock : 

Recognition — know  empties  by  description  on  sheet,  know  labels 

by  stamped  sizes. 
Safety :     Xone. 

Care  of  Tools :     Xothing  special. 
Drawing  and  Science  :     None. 

Mathematics:  Figuring  number  of  boxes  needed  for  particular 
lot  number.  Counting  out  boxes  as  tied  in  bundles  of  3's, 
4's,  6's,  or  more. 

PAYROLL  JOB— BOXER 

The  boxers  have  two  main  work  jobs,  one  boxing  and  the  other 
bundling,  that  is  wrapping  in  paper  bound  bundles  instead  of  in 
boxes. 

1.  Sorting:     Sort  garments  into  piles  according  to  sizes,  and  also 

to  colors  in  goods,  or  color  of  trimmings.  Collect  from  piles 
in  dozens,  or  in  fractions  of  a  dozen  as  3/12,  4/12  or  6/12 
dozen,  having  same  size  but  assorted  colors. 

2.  Bundling:     Check  sizes,  style  and  quantity  on  garment  labels 

with  those  on  wrappers.  Lay  wrappers  on  table,  labels 
down.  Tie  bundles.  Place  bundle  of  garments  in  position. 
AVrap  and  tie.  Stack  on  truck. 

3.  Boxing :     Check  sizes,  style  and  quantity  on  garment  label  with 


77 

those  on  box.     Place  sorted  bundles  in  box.     Put  on  lid  and 
tie  box.     (In  higher  priced  garments  and  all  summer  lines 
the  boxes  are  lined  with  special  tissue  paper  carrying  the 
firm  trade  mark,  before  bundles  are  placed  in  the  boxes. 
Auxiliary  Information 
Trade  Terms : 

Materials — garments,  wrappers,  boxes,  twine,  lining  tissue  paper. 
Tools — Scissors. 

Operations — checking,  tying,  wrapping,  laying  in  boxes,  stack- 
ing on  truck. 

Location — wrappers  with  label  side  down. 
Stock : 

Recognition — folded  garments  by  name  and  shape. 
Safety  and  Care  of  Tools :     None. 
Drawing  and  Science :     None. 

Mathematics :  Estimating  length  of  twine  correct  to  6"  for  com- 
pleting tied  bundles,  counting  out  garments  in  dozens  or 
fractions  of  a  dozen. 

After  bundles  and  boxes  have  been  tied  and  stacked  on  the  trucks 
by  the  folding  department,  the  manufacturing  has  been  completed. 
They  are  then  sent  to  the  Stock  Room. 

VII.     USE  OF  INSTRUCTION  SHEETS 

Instruction  is  measured  as  to  its  success  by  what  the  learner  can 
do  as  a  result  of  it.  Good  instruction  is  also  a  cost  cutting  factor 
in  the  degree  that  it  is  accomplished  in  the  shortest  possible  time  and 
with  the  elimination  of  unnecessary  effort  on  the  part  of  instructor 
and  learner.  This  means  the  use  of  any  effective  teaching  devices 
which  can  be  worked  up.  Good  instruction  sheets  prepared  in  ad- 
vance save  considerable  time,  and  make  possible  a  better  selection, 
arrangement  and  presentation  of  subject  matter.  The  sheet  is  not 
a  substitute  for  personal  instruction.  It  is  a  supplement  to  it.  It 
is  the  lesson  summary  in  permanent  form  with  some  test  exercises 
attached,  and  is  intended  to  be  handed  to  the  learner  only  after  a 
personally  conducted  lesson  has  been  put  over. 

The  following  sample  instruction  sheet  has  been  prepared  to  illus- 
trate what  can  be  done  in  part-time  and  vestibule  schools  by  means 
of  such  a  device.  The  vestibule  school  may  not  make  use  of  all  the 
material  which  appears  on  these  sheets  because  its  objective  is  not 
so  inclusive  as  the  public  part-time  school  objective,  but  the  objective 
of  the  vestibule  school  should  be  inclusive  of  much  more  than  it  has 
been  in  the  past,  if  it  is  to  accomplish  results  that  employers  expect 
of  it. 

It  will  be  rightly  judged  that  the  sample  is  somewhat  long.  The 
fact  is  that  such  a  lesson  sheet  would  be  fitted  in  among  others  ahead 
of  and  following  it,  so  that  some  questions  appearing  here  might 
appear  with  equal  effectiveness  on  other  sheets.  Their  presence 


78 

here  in  such  numbers  is  rather  to  indicate  the  possibilities  than  to 
suggest  exactly  what  might  appear  on  this  instruction  sheet  when 
placed  among  others  in  service.  It  is  necessary,  however,  to  have 
"repeat"  questions  frequently. 

Charting  the  operations  will  lead  to  some  study  of  their  efficiency, 
and  should  produce  frequent  revisions  by  the  up-to-date  instructor, 
showing  shortened  time  or  reduced  number  of  motions.  The  result, 
will  be  standardized  operation  sheets. 

Under  the  heading  of  related  instruction  the  purpose  is  to  start 
the  new  girl  thinking  about  her  job,  as  her  own,  and  also  in  relation 
to  the  whole  product.  It  is  evident  that  many  more  questions  could 
be  added. 

The  reference  to  a  drawing  clears  up  points  of  doubt,  and  also 
serves  as  a  record  of  things  talked  about  which  might  otherwise  slip 
by.  Have  the  learner  draw  her  own  at  times. 

The  mathematics  will  bring  the  question  of  relative  speed  to  the 
girl's  attention  at  the  start  and  will  give  her  a  means  of  computing 
her  attainment  from  day  to  day.*  It  will  also  reveal  the  fact  that  the 
company  is  losing  money  in  proportion  as  she  is  paid  a  bonus.  In 
the  early  training  period  the  company  loses  most,  in  the  later  train- 
ing period  she  herself  loses  most  by  not  being  up  to  average  speed. 

In  the  part-time  school  there  should  be  as  much  exercise  work  in 
English  as  can  be  worked  in  about  the  job  which  is  to  be,  or  has 
been  done.  These  will  suggest  themselves  to  every  interested  teacher. 
In  the  vestibule  school  it  is  not  expected  that  such  exercises  would 
be  carried  through  but  it  is  advisable  that  the  instruction  suggested 
by  these  exercises  be  given. 

Instruction  sheets  ought  to  be  prepared  in  advance  of  the  lesson 
to  be  taught,  and  carefully  checked  through  with  someone  in  the 
employ  of  the  company  competent  to  pass  authentic  judgment  upon 
them.  The  checking  of  these  in  preparation  is  a  real  coordinating 
duty  of  the  part-time  school  instructor.  When  so  passed,  they  should 
be  stencilled  and  sufficient  copies  run  off  to  serve  the  purpose  of  the 
school  for  some  time  in  advance.  That  is,  there  should  be  available 
a  copy  to  give  to  each  learner,  so  that  she  has  at  the  end  some  real 
reference  material  to  use  when  needed.  Once  the  labor  of  preparing 
these  has  been  expended,  the  instructional  job  of  the  teacher  will  be 
considerably  lightened  in  the  checking  and  follow-up  part  of  her 
duties  particularly. 

Instructors  will  find  in  sections  IV,  V  and  VI  of  this  analysis  a 
large  field  for  suggestive  questions.  So  large  in  fact  is  it  that  the 
problem  of  the  teacher  will  be  not,  what  can  I  find  to  put  in,  but 
rather  what  shall  I  leave  out  ?  It  is  hoped  that  with  such  suggestive 
material  at  hand  for  use  of  instructors  in  the  needle  trade,  and  an 
assurance  that  these  instructors  can  use  it  advantageously,  the  labor 
of  compiling  it  will  have  been  a  service  worth  rendering  to  the  cause 
of  vocational  education. 


70 

Part-Time  Trade  Preparatory  School 
Job  Instruction  Sheet 

Xeedle  Trade  Lesson 

Job — Piece  two  dozen  pairs  of  men's  pa  jama  jacket  sleeves. 


Enlarged  view  of  seam  at  XY 

•^    I' 

(c) 


(b) 


Operations 

Note :  Instructor  will  have  given  instruction  on  and  demonstrated 
the  use  and  care  of  machine  in  previous  lessons,  so  that  learner 
knows  the  machine  and  can  operate  it  in  running  a  straight  row  of 
stitching. 

1.  Open  bundle  and  check  edges  A  and  B  of  sleeve-pieces.     •    • 

2.  Lay  bundle  of  larger  pieces  in  convenient  position  on  lap,  and 

the  other  at  left  side  of  machine  on  top  of  table,  having  the 
right  side  of  both  bundles  up. 

3.  Place  smaller  piece  outside  on  machine  right  side  up,  and  enter 

shoulder  end  of  joining  edge  (if  right  sleeve)  in  lower  scroll 

of  folder.     (If  left  sleeve,  insert  cuff  end  in  scroll.) 
Place  larger  piece  inside  on  machine  right  side  up,  and  insert 

corresponding  end  of  joining  edge  in  upper  scroll  of  folder. 
Start  machine,  and  guide  pieces  through  to  end  of  seam. 
Repeat  operations  3,  4  and  5  with  next  on  top  of  bundles.     (It 

will  be  the  mate  of  the  first  sleeve  to  form  the  pair,  and  will 

be  run  through  from  opposite  end.) 
Continue  operations  3,  4,  5  and  6  until  bundle  is  all  through. 


4. 


80 

8.  Pull  mass  from  behind  machine,  snipping  threads  connecting 

each  sleeve,  trimming  shoulder  end  of  seam  when  necessary, 
and  laying  sleeves  in  flat  bundle  (by  pairs)  on  lap  as  trimmed. 

9.  Tie  bundle,  and  mark  tag  with  operator's  number. 

Related  Instruction 

Shop  Knowledge — 

1.  The  seam  should  be  so  placed  as  to  lie  on  the  back  of  the  sleeve 

when  sewn  into  jacket,  and  lap  of  seam  should  face  towards 
the  back.     What  reasons  can  you  give  for  this  .' 

2.  Why  should  the  smaller  pieces  be  placed  to  the  left  of  the 

machine  head  and  the  larger  pieces  in  the  operator's  lap  .' 

3.  Why  check  the  A  and  B  edges  of  the  first  two  pieces  .' 

4.  Would  it  make  any  difference  to  you  if  you  performed  opera- 

tion 4  before  doing  operation  3.'     If  so,  what  and  why  .' 

5.  Why  do  you  retard  the  lower  or  outside  piece,  and  allow  the 

upper  to  feed  through  freely  ? 

6.  What  is  the  name  of  the  goods  you  are  using?     Is  it  cotton, 

silk,  linen  or  wool?     Is  the  pattern  woven  into  or  printed 
onto  it? 

7.  Why  is  it  suitable  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  used  ?     Why 

do  you  think  the  purchasing  department  selected  it  ? 

8.  In  certain  sizes  of  garments  the  sleeves  may  be  cut  with  half 

of  the  bundle  in  one-piece  sleeves,  and  the  other  half  in  two 
pieces.     How  do  you  account  for  it  ? 

9.  What  length  of  stitch  are  you  using?     Why?     What  size  of 

thread  ? 

10.    To  whom  will  the  sleeves  go  after  this  job  ?     What  will  be  done 
to  them  then?     Should  the  trimming  operation  belong  to  this 
job  or  the  next  ?     Why  ? 
Drawing — 

1.  In  figure  (a)  of  the  drawing,  what  do  dash  lines  "C"  repre- 
•    .       sent  ?     Are  there  any  such  lines  on  the  cloth  ? 

2.  Indicate  the  position  of  the  "C"  lines  in  figure  (c).     In  figure 

(b).     Where  are  these  places  on  the  scrolls  of  the  folder? 

3.  Is  figure  (b)  a  sketch  of  a  right  or  a  left  sleeve?     Why? 

4.  What  do  the  two  vertical  lines  in  figure  (c)  mean  ? 

5.  What  difference  do  you  find  in  starting  the  shoulder  end  from 

that  of  starting  the  cuff  end  into  the  scrolls  of  the  folder? 
Which  is  the  easier  ?     Why  ? 
Mathematics — 

1.  Make  a  record  of  the  time  you  start  and  finish  the  bundle. 

Subtract  to  find  the  time  required.     How  many  bundles  per 
day  could  you  run  at  this  rate  ? 

2.  If  the  piece-rate  is  5  cents  per  dozen,  how  much  would  you  earn 

per  day  of  factory  length  ?     Per  week  of  factory  length  ? 


81 

3.  How  many  bundles  would  you  have  to  do  in  a  day  to  earn  the 

average  daily  wage  of  $2.00? 

4.  What  fraction  represents  your  daily  rate  in  bundles  compared 

with  the  average  daily  rate? 

5.  Which  one  of  the  following  fractions  comes  nearest  to  repre- 

senting your  efficiency:  V8,  14,  %,  l/2,  %,  3/4,  7s?  What 
would  it  be  in  per  cent  ? 

6.  How  much  are  you  being  paid  for  this  week's  work?     If  your 

earnings  are  indicated  by  your  answer  to  question  2,  how 
much  is  the  company  "out"  because  you  are  only  learning 
how  to  earn?  How  much  are  you  yourself  "out"  because 
you  are  not  yet  up  to  the  average  ? 

7.  If  you  spoiled  six  pairs  of  sleeves  irretrievably,  and  had  the 

cost  of  the  goods  deducted  from  your  pay,  how  much  would 
you  lose  if  the  goods  cost  10^  cents  per  yard  of  36"  width, 
assuming  that  the  pieces  were  cut  side  by  side  in  the  most 
economical  arrangement  ? 
English— 

1.  Write  in  your  notebook  the  meaning  of  the  following  terms: 

sleeve-pieces  folder 

joining  edge  scroll 

shoulder  end  presser  foot 

seam  faces  back  tension 

cambric  retard 

2.  Read   from  some  selected   source  about  the  manufacture  of 

cambric. 

3.  Write  from  memory  a  half  page  or  more  telling  how  it  is  made. 


82 

INDEX 

PAGI: 
Section    I.      Introduction 3 

Section  II.     Methods  of  Preparatory  Training 4 

1.  Public  part-time  preparatory  school. 

2.  Factory  vestibule  school. 

Section  III.     Vocational  Teaching  Objectives 7 

Section  IV.     General  Instructional  Content 8 

1.  The  Local  Company. 

2.  Manufacturing  costs. 

3.  Markets  and  competition. 

4.  Business  turnover. 

Section  V.     Common  Factory    Knowledge 

1.  The  local  organization  for  production. 

2.  Materials  used  in  factory  production. 

3.  Equipment. 

a.  Construction,  operation  and   care  of  machines. 

b.  Cafeteria  and  recreation  rooms. 

4.  Routing  system. 

5.  Card  and  ticket  systems. 

6.  Employment  and  training. 

Section  VI.     Detailed  Analysis  of  Certain  Departments 

1.  Overall. 

2.  Sleeping-wear. 

3.  Children's  sleeper. 

4.  Folding. 

Section  VII.     Use  of  Job  Instruction  Sheds.  . 


SOUTHER*  BRANCH 

OF  CALIFORNIA, 


CALIF. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


Form  L9-75m-7,'61(01437s4)444 


THE  Li  Bit  AK I 

UNIVERSITY  OP  C/%  IFORN14 

LOS  A'NGELES 


713   Lynn, 

L99o  Outlines  of  in- 

struction  in  the 

needle-working1  trade 


TT 

713 

L99o 


